Does anodizing make a noticeable difference?

Car 54

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Depends ,are you talking about abutments or reputations?

I usually will use an anodized abutment in the esthetic zone only. Not really a concern with bone level implants.

Thanks. I like that as far as not worrying about it for posteriors esp. molars...Bis maybe, or why not if you're set up for it. I did just order one anodized even though it's for a lower 1st molar, just to see what the milling centers version looks like.
 
PDC

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Here is a photo of a gold hue Atlantis abutment. Looks very nice. Seems to be a deeper yellow than the anodized method...but it costs $56 more to get this. Maybe our anodized version will be a cost effective alternative while providing similar results.

images
 
rkm rdt

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The problem is the cement not the anodization.
 
2thm8kr

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Here is a photo of a gold hue Atlantis abutment. Looks very nice. Seems to be a deeper yellow than the anodized method...but it costs $56 more to get this. Maybe our anodized version will be a cost effective alternative while providing similar results.

images
You can get them that color, it just takes a little experimenting.
 
Car 54

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Here is a photo of a gold hue Atlantis abutment. Looks very nice. Seems to be a deeper yellow than the anodized method...but it costs $56 more to get this. Maybe our anodized version will be a cost effective alternative while providing similar results.

images

Nice photo, nice looking abutment. I'll see what I get back from Vulcan.
 
Andrew Priddy

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we anodize 3-5 a week.. and charge for it..
it's worth the cost of the machine/ materials/ time...

and may also be one of the reasons we get work from some dr's... extended service
 
Car 54

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Here is a photo of a gold hue Atlantis abutment. Looks very nice. Seems to be a deeper yellow than the anodized method...but it costs $56 more to get this. Maybe our anodized version will be a cost effective alternative while providing similar results.

images

Here is the Vulcan version I said I would post. My photos maybe aren't as bright, but theirs seems to have a bit more of a deep brass look to them, it's very nice. Also, their vertical retention cement "evacuation" grooves, take away from the more polished look. I'm happy with it, for less than 1/2 the price of Atlantis. I'll probably need to adjust a bit of the distal for more room, due to my poor design there.

IMG_0544_zpsnpnst1l6.jpg


IMG_0549_zpsjh2xkorc.jpg


IMG_0553_zpswwqlgqwc.jpg
 
Car 54

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Edit: I found my answer from my Zimmer rep. Not that I couldn't wait for a reply here, but I had a case I needed to deliver by 5:00.
 
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Car 54

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Hi all :)

Sorry for my neglect of this forum, but it's been really busy. Thanks to those who called and PMd me to check for a heartbeat, that was kind of you :)

I'm getting ready to cemet a zi crown to a Zimmer TI base. Those bases come with a bit of groove retention, but are also shiny. If I sandblast the surface for an even better cement bond retention, can I anadoize it without losing the matte finish? Or, is anodizing going to make it shiny again and cancel out some of the bond I'm looking for?
 
Car 54

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Yep, really new. My rep didn't even know about them until I asked my account if he had the bigger hex driver for that screw, and called our rep to find out.

2020-8-3 17-17-19.jpg
 
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Car 54

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The bigger screw head size also makes for a bigger access hole (2.5mm),so for the smaller crowns you may want to go with plan b?

o2020-8-11 12-2-0.jpg
 
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Hi all :)

Sorry for my neglect of this forum, but it's been really busy. Thanks to those who called and PMd me to check for a heartbeat, that was kind of you :)

I'm getting ready to cemet a zi crown to a Zimmer TI base. Those bases come with a bit of groove retention, but are also shiny. If I sandblast the surface for an even better cement bond retention, can I anadoize it without losing the matte finish? Or, is anodizing going to make it shiny again and cancel out some of the bond I'm looking for?
It has to be shiny in order to anodize , don’t sandblast it
 
Car 54

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It has to be shiny in order to anodize , don’t sandblast it

Thanks for the reply, I may not have worded it very well. But from my understanding a sandblasted Ti base top part, will have a better bond to cement, yet l'd still like to anodized for a better "prepped area" color under my crown. The cement isn't going to be thick enough to block out the gray. I know about pre sister white opaque, still looking for a better underlying abutment color.

Would anodizing the sandblasted top part, affect the bond of the cement, or just change the color and its still a good bond as it's not changing the surface.

On cementable, I micro groove the surface (top part) for retention then anodize. Fom what I've seen elsewhere, and even Dess, has a blasted surface. Just wasn't sure if I should monkey around with that surface.
 
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adl

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Thanks for the reply, I may not have worded it very well. But from my understanding a sandblasted Ti base top part, will have a better bond to cement, yet l'd still like to anodized for a better "prepped area" color under my crown. The cement isn't going to be thick enough to block out the gray. I know about pre sister white opaque, still looking for a better underlying abutment color.

Would anodizing the sandblasted top part, affect the bond of the cement, or just change the color and its still a good bond as it's not changing the surface.

On cementable, I micro groove the surface (top part) for retention then anodize. Fom what I've seen elsewhere, and even Dess, has a blasted surface. Just wasn't sure if I should monkey around with that surface.
A lot has to do with the technique. I use PanaviaV5 and most my abutments are gold anodized. I haven’t had 1 come off yet. Just make sure everything is really dry before applying the cement . Panavia V5 has a metal primer as well.. I would not use an expired cement . Whatever area is sandblasted and not repolish it’s not going to anodize.
 
Sda36

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A lot has to do with the technique. I use PanaviaV5 and most my abutments are gold anodized. I haven’t had 1 come off yet. Just make sure everything is really dry before applying the cement . Panavia V5 has a metal primer as well.. I would not use an expired cement . Whatever area is sandblasted and not repolish it’s not going to anodize.
My experience is to sandblast top portion and tben anodize. Definitely gets gold hue but of lower value due ti blasting. Always try to put some dimples for retention on the inside fitting surface of your crowns pre-sinter, just be careful of thin areas. This provides a dual lock between both post cementation. Its a shame to see a unit pop off with all the resin attached to the abutment only. Found this out in the lab doing some testing. Never had a clincal debond so far. Hey where's that wood... 2x4 after saying that?? Hmmmm2🙃
 
Sevan P

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For Zr added thing to do is use B&D White effect 2 paint in in the cavity of the ZR before sintering. It adds a white frosty effect and blocks out way better then anything else. On top of anodizing. I have use it on Argen HT+. ST and STML and have had no loss of value. and its cheap 23 per bottle and goes a long way.
 
Car 54

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Thank you for all of the replies, I appreciate that helpful information :)
 

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