Camera Flash Question

[user name]

User, have a look here, too:

https://www.keh.com

Thanks. I was just there. Whats the difference when they say 'U.S. model' or something being 'gray market'?

 

[Contraluz]

What is it about the D300 that's different and better?

The D300 was/is considered a 'professional' body. The built quality, the control bottom layout, autofocus, flash integration etc is superior over the consumer bodies of its time.
But, besides of the sturdiness of the body itself, you will find that many of the newer camera bodies offer better solutions or are, at least, at the same level.

I myself always wanted a D300 or 300s as an upgrade to my D200 (love this camera!). I have a D7100, I use most, today. May look into de new D500, though

Edit: changed D310 to D300s

 

[Contraluz]

Thanks. I was just there. Whats the difference when they say 'U.S. model' or something being 'gray market'?

'U.S. models' were meant for the US market. 'Grey market' models are imports through third countries. It has to do with the warranty. You may find yourself in troubles when trying to service a 'grey market' model here in the US. Nikon US is very protective when it comes to this kind of questions... Applies not only to Nikon US...

Grey market models are cheaper when bought new. Most sales points, like BH and others, offer both versions.

 

[user name]

'U.S. models' were meant for the US market. 'Grey market' models are imports through third countries. It has to do with the warranty. You may find yourself in troubles when trying to service a 'grey market' model here in the US. Nikon US is very protective when it comes to this kind of questions... Applies not only to Nikon US...

Grey market models are cheaper when bought new. Most sales points, like BH and others, offer both versions.

KEH wouldn't provide any shutter count, but I found a nearly new all original packing and acc for a pretty good deal on ebay, so in a few days Ill have more ways to get frustrated.

I cant imagine Ill do any better than I was with my D60. The D90 was an attempt at simplifying because of the built in flash commander, so Ill just call it a lesson learned.

 

[millennium]

Hi all,
I cant get this question sorted out before I upgrade my Nikon D70.
Does a full frame sensor camera take better images that a cropped frame? (In the same hands)
Thanks in advance!

 

[Contraluz]

Does a full frame sensor camera take better images that a cropped frame? (In the same hands)
Thanks in advance!

No...

Better in what regards? There are differences but you don’t get a better image just because you use a ‘full frame’ body. For example, the newer cropped sensors have a dinamic range comparable to a full frame.
Lenses make a much bigger difference in regards to quality.

Had a D70 as my first digital camera. Loved it until it got stolen...

 

[user name]

Let me throw some gas on the fire of confusion. Full frame vs cropped; DX vs FX in Nikon I think. I read, but don't recall...something goofy about your lens matching (or not matching) the camera.

 

[Contraluz]

DX vs FX in Nikon I think. I read, but don't recall...something goofy about your lens matching (or not matching) the camera.

In general you can say:

FX lenses work well on DX bodies
Dx lenses don’t work well on FX bodies

Like with everything, there are exceptions to the rule...

But to visualize the effect of a DX lease on a FX body:





Nikon's explanation of FX vs DX:

https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/products-and-innovation/the-dx-and-fx-formats.html#

 

[millennium]

I am between a Nikon D7200 and D750

 

[Contraluz]

I am between a Nikon D7200 and D750

If you don't have your money invested in DX glass, go fo the D750. There are advantages with a full frame sensor, especially if you want to use it as a portrait camera. If you shoot a lot of sports, or wildlife, you may want consider the a DX sensor camera, though. However, check this link before you buy either used or new:

https://nikonrumors.com/2017/07/13/...ll-newer-cameras-could-also-be-impacted.aspx/

I also came across this site. First time I checked it out:

http://cameradecision.com/compare/Nikon-D750-vs-Nikon-D7200

 

[millennium]

Sorry about your camera being stolen!
I use my camera for work (intraoral photography and family/trips.
The D70 with the DX kit lens goes to my doughter.
For work I have Nikkor 105mm prime lens, so I can buy either format.
I don't need lots of frames per second.

 

[millennium]

I read about the D750 shutter issue. Apparently Nikon takes care of that within two weeks.
That comparison site is great. Thank you.

 

[Greg Lutke]

Let me throw some gas on the fire of confusion. Full frame vs cropped; DX vs FX in Nikon I think. I read, but don't recall...something goofy about your lens matching (or not matching) the camera.

Username, conversations about cameras and photography tend to drift away from the basics of dental needs. I do hope this helps simplify your needs, with the Nikon 105 mm lens and the R1C1 flash that you have.

I would say the important parts of dental photography - flash based, macro (up close) photography are:

1. EXPOSURE CONTROL. Only use a camera body with TTL technology built in. TTL is a technology that helps with exposure – or makes certain you don’t over or under expose you teeth, face, or restorations on a model. This TTL technology is only very important in flash assisted photography. You need to buy a model from Nikon (in your case) that has TTL built into the body. I recommended a D300 as the least expensive body that fully has TTL. **The other Nikon bodies you listed did not have TTL technology built into those cameras. Lastly, make sure your S800 Commander is set to TTL and the channels are set on the Commander to match the R200's.

2. ACCURATE COLOR. You will need to do a 5 minute task with your camera and flash. This is called a ‘Custom White Balance.’ This quick step will neutralize the tint from your flash – and the resulting JPGs will be color accurate. After capturing your custom white balance, you must set the camera white balance to Custom, in the camera menu. Although seemingly simple – this is the one and only way to get accurate color in dentistry. A1 will be accurate and different than B1. Skin tones will be perfect and accurate.

3. Set your camera’s program to Aperture Priority. This will lock down everything except the f/stop. In general, f/stops of 4-10 are for face shots, while f/stops of 36-40 are for up close shots. Higher f/stops result in higher depth-of-field (really good for dental). In dentistry the up close shots are commonly called 1:1 and 1:2. Face shots are commonly called 1:10

4. The last quality step is camera stability. If you can use a tripod or monopod during capture, your resulting pictures will be their most crisp and sharp. This is less important than the first 3 – but will make a huge difference after you get everything else setup correctly.

 

[Contraluz]

Sorry about your camera being stolen!

Thanks, but hat was a long time ago. As a replacement, I bought a D100 from a friend, which I did not like at all (camera, not the friend ;-) . In 2006, I then bought the D200, which I really liked. A couple years back, I 'upgraded' to a D7100. This is my main camera, today. I have to start using my D200 again!

M

 

[millennium]

Hi Greg,
I just set my D70 to TTL mode and my Nikon SB-29 ring flash to TTL mode and the camera wont fire off a shot.
I always did trial and error exposure control by adjusting the flash and f-stops and using the histogram.

 

[Contraluz]

Hi Greg,
I just set my D70 to TTL mode and my Nikon SB-29 ring flash to TTL mode and the camera wont fire off a shot.
I always did trial and error exposure control by adjusting the flash and f-stops and using the histogram.

I vaguely remember there were issues with the “old” flashes and the then new digital cameras. It may very well be your D70 is not compatible with that flash?
Somebody else may have a better memory...

 

[millennium]

I remember something about Cannon having TTL and Nikon not, back in 2005 or 06 when I bought the D70.
The TTL settings are there on both the flash and the camera but the camera will not fire a shot when I press the button to shoot. I guess I will buy the R1C1 twin flash with the new camera.

 

[Contraluz]

I guess I will buy the R1C1 twin flash

That is a wise decision!

 

[user name]

Username, conversations about cameras and photography tend to drift away from the basics of dental needs. I do hope this helps simplify your needs, with the Nikon 105 mm lens and the R1C1 flash that you have.

2. ACCURATE COLOR. You will need to do a 5 minute task with your camera and flash. This is called a ‘Custom White Balance.’ This quick step will neutralize the tint from your flash – and the resulting JPGs will be color accurate. After capturing your custom white balance, you must set the camera white balance to Custom, in the camera menu. Although seemingly simple – this is the one and only way to get accurate color in dentistry. A1 will be accurate and different than B1. Skin tones will be perfect and accurate.

I don't understand what we're supposed to do here.

 

[Sda36]

I don't understand what we're supposed to do here.

Have you actually checked the Line Smart Phone System with polar_eyes, their latest. Very cool set up but can't say anything on results. Would sure be easy if it works and pratical to suggest to clients?? Check it out...

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