Bonded RPE w/ brackets to acrylic?

[trisha]

Okay ortho people I need your input:

I have a dr. that wants me to make an acrylic bonded RPE and he has supplied me with brackets for the 1st molars (2 sheaths that can accomodate an archwire).

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to add the brackets to the acrylic (buccal of 6's) and embed the bracket with out the acrylic creeping around the hole for the band? This was a new one for me.

And how secure will this be? He is bonding upper 2's and wants to extend the wire back to the 6's?

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks,
trisha

 

[RetainerDesigner]

The acrylic bonded RPE's i've seen (and the few I've done) has a wire that wraps around the buccal of the posterior teeth to the lingual which you solder to the RPE screw. I would solder the bracket to the wire that is wrapping around the 6. Then I would put chapstick in the hole of the bracket to keep the acrylic out And/or put some clay around the whole bracket while pouring up.

THis is the Wraparound wire type i was talking about.



Or maybe you can add something like these attachments. Or solder some type of attachments to the back of the bracket

Hope that helps

Cade

 

[trisha]

Thank you Cade for the suggestions and photos. I would like to solder the brackets onto the wire wrapped around 6's but afraid I will clog up hole. Any way I will experiment. Again thank you for your input. I will take a photo when I am done so you can see what I decided.
trisha

 

[labdude]

When you solder, use anti-flux. Green heat shield stuff. Will stop solder from getting where you don't want it. Get it where you do want solder, no good.
I use pink wax to cover springs and sheaths etc. where I don't want acrylic.
Works great for finger springs in acrylic. For boil out of wax, I have for many years used a cooker fryer type thingy you can get most anywhere. Just plug it in just before you need it. They are designed for boiling oil and such, not for water. Doesn't matter, it isn't on long enough to be a problem. Leave it boil the whole time you are flushing wax out.
I use a metal type strainer to hold the appliance and a baster to move the hot water. Works great, I have used this method for about 24 years. Only used up 3 cooker fryer goodies. They are a lot cheaper than a lab boil out tank set up, or a steam unit.
I have done the head gear tubes before. The sheaths maybe could be mounted on .051 or so to get them above the acrylic. Or just leave the acrylic really thin.
Mike.
Edit:Generally I will also blast(100 micron Aluminum Oxide) the entire portion of the unit that will be set in acrylic. Gives a good bond. Some doctors like holes put through in about 3 or 4 places for bonding flow. Others like a groove cut at the buccal and lingual for bonding flow. Use a separatindg disc for the groove.

 

[trisha]

Thanks for the input. It sounds like you are using a lot of time to clean away the wax from appliances. Have you ever tried a handy steamer? I bought one from GL a couple of years ago. Loved it, it just shot craps on me a few weeks. I went up to Bed bath and beyond and bought a new one for $32.00. It gets right into the crevices and very reasonably priced.
You can use it on the acrylic too without any distrotion.
Just a thought,
trisha

 

[RetainerDesigner]

I forgot about the solder getting into the holes. I have heat shield from GL, forgot to include that in the steps. I would use that for anti-flux. Also if you dont have antiflux, you can use a pencil, the graphite in the pencil is a natural heat sheild. Just color in where you dont want solder.

I had a steamer (bought it from Lowes) it was 75 dollars, Craped out on me after 3 years, I really miss that thing. Good to hear bed, bath and beyond has one for cheap. Im sure my wife will like to go with me to pick one up Never mind that trip will cost me more than 32 dollars.

 

[labdude]

Flushing with boiling water isn't so bad. 20 cases takes about 1 minute.
Maybe a steamer takes about 20 seconds?? I'll get one form bed and bath and try it out..
Mike.

 

[trisha]

I was thinking of spot welding the bracket onto a band, then cutting the band about 3 mm on each side of bracket that I can use the welded piece to imbed in the acrylic? What do you guys think? I am going to work on this case tomorrow and will let you know my results.

Bed Bath and Beyond always have a 20% off coupon in the sunday papers, saved me about 8 bucks. Original cost 40 w/coupon 32. But I am sure your wife will already be aware of this coupon!

Let me know what you think about the steamer vs. your current technique. I would be interested to find out your opinion.

I've used anti flux ~ it scares me!!!!!!!!!!!!

trisha

 

[labdude]

Heat shield is no big deal Trisha! I hope your kidding.
It is great stuf for repairing a solder joint close to acrylic, keeps acrylic cool and un-burned. Looks like guacamole actually, I haven't tried it however. Lab is making enough money to buy real food.

 

[trisha]

What I ending up doing for the bonded RPE. I used my biostar for the acrylic occlusal coverage then cut out an area for the bracket & filled it with s&p already mixed. I ran a .023 wire through the hole (prior to putting it in the acyrlic) and left it in while it set in the pressure pot. I am pleased with the results.

Hey Labdude~
I do use the anti flux on acrylic that is too close to the wires. It scares me to try and use it on the wires.

Thanks for your input every one
trisha

 

[labdude]

If you place heat shield material on a wire, it will stay put. I will not flow into the joint or dis-color the wire. Just protects it as well as acrylic. And keeps solder form flowing where you don't want it.