Best ceramic?

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PinAn

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Hi guys
There is so many factory product ceramics powder
Which one you are using? Do you think that is the best one?
Why you use that?
 
Bumfrey

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I'm sure if you look there are threads on this already. In-line and GC are very popular.
 
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PinAn

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I'm sure if you look there are threads on this already. In-line and GC are very popular.
Ya but I don't know why Naoki Hayashi and Nodas using Noritake
And why I'm seldom heard ViTa
 
Car 54

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It's probably because it's what they've been using for a while, what they have figured out, and worked out in how to use it? The best ceramic is the system you have worked out, and can work with confidence with. That when you take a custom shade, or get those shade photos in, know you can get there more easily with your system and your experience with it.

You could probably find many porcelains here that people have posted and liked. Halo, Vita, Noritake, GC, etc. I'm sure there are others who use Ceramco 3, Avante who have not posted on this forum, or who aren't even members here, who get excellent results. It just comes down to what type of system and philosophy you're looking for, a translucent system, medium opacity system like Halo, or a more opacious system like Creation.
 
JKraver

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Experience based materials are a little bit of blind faith and a whole lot of dedication. Everyone likes things a little different.
 
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It's probably because it's what they've been using for a while, what they have figured out, and worked out in how to use it? The best ceramic is the system you have worked out, and can work with confidence with. That when you take a custom shade, or get those shade photos in, know you can get there more easily with your system and your experience with it.

You could probably find many porcelains here that people have posted and liked. Halo, Vita, Noritake, GC, etc. I'm sure there are others who use Ceramco 3, Avante who have not posted on this forum, or who aren't even members here, who get excellent results. It just comes down to what type of system and philosophy you're looking for, a translucent system, medium opacity system like Halo, or a more opacious system like Creation.
Thanks for replying
But just like you said
Every system have their good part
But I'm seldom heard about Vita and GC and noritake
What is the comments for these mainly famous system?
 
Car 54

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A lot of members here use GC LiSi.
 
Affinity

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Check out the 'All things initial' thread .. GC is nice porcelain.. It may or may not be the most beautifull.. Ive never used noritake or creation.. which I think are 'higher end' maybe more expensive.. but Ive used GC exclusively for 10 years now and it handles great, the system is fairly easy to use.

The chroma with GC is not as intense unless you use the INside powders. So shades tend to be light.. Opaque is too light IMO, so you should go a shade darker if you dont want that light line around your margins when you then your porcelain..
 
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So is there have any comments with VITA? Noritake?
 
Bumfrey

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When i started i bought some sample kits. Some companies offer kits to try for free for a time period. Get your hands dirty and try them. Some guys love a certain porcelain, and other will hate it. Its down to the user really.
 
rkm rdt

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The best comments are from my clients that loved my noritake czr.

Who uses powder anymore?
 
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Noritake EX3 for pfm
Noritake CZR for Zirconia
Very easy to use and looks Beautiful
 
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Hi guys, I have several questions hope you can help me
I used to use Dental director and noritake ,
So it's my first time to use VITA VM9
I don't know what is the T-blue (i think it's transpa blue) or water color at vita
I have try EO3 (but it's too blue and too cream and opaque)
And the EE9
EE9 looks like the between transpa and blue
So I can't find the way to figure out the build logic with VITA porcelain.
Is there have transfer list for these different system?
Or if I want transparent,just mix the window?

And if I think the window is not transparent enough, how can I do?

Thank you
 
Baobabtree

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Hi PinAn

Try this youtube vid

 
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PinAn

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Hi PinAn

Try this youtube vid


Hi baobatree ,I have watch and learn by this video before,
You can see him use the enamel on full tooth,and I have try to do that, the teeth looks become white . I don't know why,
And the first baked he got a good mamelon shade and the blue insical, I can't get that

I have to try build two teeth with VM9
http://imgur.com/tzZyD3x
http://imgur.com/04uVnsg
http://imgur.com/8dPQ9tl
http://imgur.com/MPd4oYc
http://imgur.com/LcIlfeO
Color looks correct,
but one of these I use the pure window to build enamel,and I can't get the feel just like the translucent as glass...

Does any one can give me advice?
Or criticize my products, anything would be helpful

Thank you
 
JKraver

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I am no porcelain guy, but sounds like your firing cycles.
 
Baobabtree

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Hi baobatree ,I have watch and learn by this video before,
You can see him use the enamel on full tooth,and I have try to do that, the teeth looks become white . I don't know why,
And the first baked he got a good mamelon shade and the blue insical, I can't get that

I have to try build two teeth with VM9
http://imgur.com/tzZyD3x
http://imgur.com/04uVnsg
http://imgur.com/8dPQ9tl
http://imgur.com/MPd4oYc
http://imgur.com/LcIlfeO
Color looks correct,
but one of these I use the pure window to build enamel,and I can't get the feel just like the translucent as glass...

Does any one can give me advice?
Or criticize my products, anything would be helpful

Thank you

As J Kraver said you could try altering some of the parameters on your furnace temps, hold times etc slightly each time with some test samples in ceramic on platinum foil for example till you find the sweet spot for your furnace. With regards to using EO1 2 and 3 these are best used in thin layers on the surface. If used too thick they will be too strong. The same for WIN, too thick and your crown will look grey.
 
JKraver

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From my very limited experience when incisal is too white, it is not hot enough, or not hot long enough. I probably shouldn't even be chiming in.
 
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