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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Misc
A Bit About Dental Photography
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<blockquote data-quote="Ahmadkawi" data-source="post: 184221" data-attributes="member: 7194"><p>Thank you for taking the time to look at my photographs. I appreciate it.</p><p></p><p>Ok, Grey Cards. The thing is that camera's only see shades of grey, from white to black; Values. 18% grey is the neutral grey as far as I can remember. You usually use it in situations when White Balance is tricky. for instance, you're doing a photoshoot and before you shoot your subject, you take a picture with the grey card in frame, then go about your business. Later on, in post-processing, the White Balance tool would have an eye-dropper tool that you use to click on the grey card in your first photograph to tell the software that this pixel should be 18% grey and the software adjusts the white balance accordingly.</p><p></p><p>To be honest, I don't think it matters much in dental photography, because the lighting conditions are pretty much always the same. which brings us to the other point you raised. Flash heads are set to a color temperature of course. usually it's around the recommended 5600 kelvins, but you should always go through the manual. But this is nothing to worry about really, you can always change the white balance in post-processing as long as you're shooting in RAW format. Always shoot RAW.</p><p></p><p>Color management in photography is a very, very big issue. So i'm going to include a link at the end about Photography Printing. It might sound a bit irrelevant. but trust me, the guy discusses the important stuff about color management between camera and computers. trust me it's a must watch.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]McMKDssgVIw[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>I'm always shooting on Manual. Other shooting modes are useful in other circumstances. In dentistry you're probably always shooting on the same settings. once you start using Aperture priority, the camera starts changing some of the settings accordingly to achieve the exposure it thinks is correct which might be, in reality, incorrect.</p><p></p><p>I use Adobe Lightroom. You can subscribe the Adobe Photography Yearly bundle which includes Lightroom and Photoshop. Lightroom is awesome. It's pretty much the standard for cataloging your images and processing them. There are others, but that's what I use. And I think Lightroom beats everything else in cataloging, which is something you definitely need to keep track of the images.</p><p></p><p>One important thing, is how you use the photograph. I use photographs in color and in black and white.</p><p></p><p>The most important thing in shade selection, is getting the values right, because this the parameter eyes are most sensitive to. So you take a picture of the shade tab next to the tooth (always at the same level and edge to edge) and you later convert it to black and white to see about the value.</p><p></p><p>As for the color part, you shoot with a twin flash kit that has a determined color temperature. you take the image that works with a color space that's transferred to a computer and displayed on a monitor that might not be showing the same colors. it doesn't really matter. because at the end what you need is a reference. at the end you can say something like "hmm, ok it's a bit more orange than 3M2" you know what you mean?</p><p></p><p>Sorry that ran a bit too long, but I like to give thorough answers when I can.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ahmadkawi, post: 184221, member: 7194"] Thank you for taking the time to look at my photographs. I appreciate it. Ok, Grey Cards. The thing is that camera's only see shades of grey, from white to black; Values. 18% grey is the neutral grey as far as I can remember. You usually use it in situations when White Balance is tricky. for instance, you're doing a photoshoot and before you shoot your subject, you take a picture with the grey card in frame, then go about your business. Later on, in post-processing, the White Balance tool would have an eye-dropper tool that you use to click on the grey card in your first photograph to tell the software that this pixel should be 18% grey and the software adjusts the white balance accordingly. To be honest, I don't think it matters much in dental photography, because the lighting conditions are pretty much always the same. which brings us to the other point you raised. Flash heads are set to a color temperature of course. usually it's around the recommended 5600 kelvins, but you should always go through the manual. But this is nothing to worry about really, you can always change the white balance in post-processing as long as you're shooting in RAW format. Always shoot RAW. Color management in photography is a very, very big issue. So i'm going to include a link at the end about Photography Printing. It might sound a bit irrelevant. but trust me, the guy discusses the important stuff about color management between camera and computers. trust me it's a must watch. [MEDIA=youtube]McMKDssgVIw[/MEDIA] I'm always shooting on Manual. Other shooting modes are useful in other circumstances. In dentistry you're probably always shooting on the same settings. once you start using Aperture priority, the camera starts changing some of the settings accordingly to achieve the exposure it thinks is correct which might be, in reality, incorrect. I use Adobe Lightroom. You can subscribe the Adobe Photography Yearly bundle which includes Lightroom and Photoshop. Lightroom is awesome. It's pretty much the standard for cataloging your images and processing them. There are others, but that's what I use. And I think Lightroom beats everything else in cataloging, which is something you definitely need to keep track of the images. One important thing, is how you use the photograph. I use photographs in color and in black and white. The most important thing in shade selection, is getting the values right, because this the parameter eyes are most sensitive to. So you take a picture of the shade tab next to the tooth (always at the same level and edge to edge) and you later convert it to black and white to see about the value. As for the color part, you shoot with a twin flash kit that has a determined color temperature. you take the image that works with a color space that's transferred to a computer and displayed on a monitor that might not be showing the same colors. it doesn't really matter. because at the end what you need is a reference. at the end you can say something like "hmm, ok it's a bit more orange than 3M2" you know what you mean? Sorry that ran a bit too long, but I like to give thorough answers when I can. [/QUOTE]
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