3Shape E3 - sticking models to plate

[Bryce Hiller]

So I am playing around with our new 3Shape E3. What do you guys use to stick your models to the plate? They sent this Blu Tack stuff, but our stone models wont stick to it. They keep falling off mid-scan. Any suggestions?

 

[Affinity]

 

[Car 54]

If your casts are damp they won't stick to the Blu Tack, which is what I use. They have to be pretty much totally dry from model trimming or else I have to super glue them to the tack. It wastes just the top layer of tack. When they're damp, I've tried roughening the surface to get them to stick but to no avail without super gluing them.

For me, when they're dry, I've found that I have mound it up a bit and push and twist down back and forth, (or twist and shout ) the stone models into the tack, to get it to stick better. Make sure you're using enough. I have 2 plates with a good amount on them for casts, and 2 with little mounds for dies.

 

[Affinity]

Smooth stone will not stick to the blue tack, its just impossible.

 

[NYJHL]

during seminar in chicago, Marcus advised to place 3 humps of tac in a triangle outline, so that when models are placed on the plate it creates a suction / suckdown affect to help with keeping models from falling off.

Doesnt always do the trick but definitely helps

 

[Car 54]

When they're dry, building up the Blu Tack and twisting and pushing them into the Blu Tack has worked for me.

edit: Maybe it works for me because they're not shiny smooth, but the bottoms have been trimmed (surface tension broken) on the model trimmer, otherwise Affinity may be right as far as it not sticking.

I was scanning this case during this thread:

 

[rkm rdt]

notch the base

 

[Affinity]

95% of the cases that I scan are monotrac, Implants have a stone base, and the rest are giroform, those really dont stick well. I end up just wrapping the putty around the model to hold it. Ive also tried mini magnetic clamps, but didnt have much luck.

 

[Sevan P]

If your models aren't sticking to it then make sure they are dry. I see this a lot with wet bases. I use blu tak.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Bryce Hiller]

If your casts are damp they won't stick to the Blu Tack, which is what I use. They have to be pretty much totally dry from model trimming or else I have to super glue them to the tack. It wastes just the top layer of tack. When they're damp, I've tried roughening the surface to get them to stick but to no avail without super gluing them.

For me, when they're dry, I've found that I have mound it up a bit and push and twist down back and forth, (or twist and shout ) the stone models into the tack, to get it to stick better. Make sure you're using enough. I have 2 plates with a good amount on them for casts, and 2 with little mounds for dies.

The 'ole twist 'n shout seems to be working. Thanks everyone!

 

[PRO ARTS DL]

Hot glue gun?

Although they sometimes also don't stick well when the models are wet

 

[Car 54]

Hot glue gun?

Although they sometimes also don't stick well when the models are wet

Yep, I found the same thing too, that it doesn't stick to good to the models if the models are wet. If they're wet, super gluing to the Tack has worked the best for me so far.

 

[Car 54]

The 'ole twist 'n shout seems to be working. Thanks everyone!

If that continues to work for you, I've also found using a square cloth type of pot holder on top of the casts and using my palm to push and twist into the tack helps with hand fatigue (makes it easier?) and from getting poked by cusp tips.

 

[rkm rdt]

If you are scanning a wet model then maybe the workflow is flawed.

 

[Car 54]

If you are scanning a wet model then maybe the workflow is flawed.

Which for me at times is when I'm behind and I have to scan and send out a week early for milled abutments and the casts are still damp.

 

[DentalTechTips]

I use this Fun-tak stuff from Lepage.

Much better than blu-tack. Naturally a bit softer and more pliable. It has a 'stickiness' to it. I still use the Blu-tack if I need something more rigid.

Also, with the Blu-tack, it helps when it's warm. I usually set the plate on top of a porcelain furnace or work the material in my hands by constantly pulling it apart (bonus: it's a good stress reliever)

Finally, if you over-extend the Blu-tack on the scan plate and then lift up the corners so it wraps around the model a bit, I find that helps with securing the model.

Been at this for 12 years and there's still a bit of a pucker factor whenever you hear something come loose inside your scanner. [emoji38]

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[Car 54]

Been at this for 12 years and there's still a bit of a pucker factor whenever you hear something come loose inside your scanner.

Lol..pucker factor, isn't that the truth, "what just chipped or broke"?

 

[Car 54]

Just maybe a helpful bonus trick at N/C?

For scanning frames, FCZ etc on a titanium abutment, think of the Drs doing a rubber dam, and put your abutment with analog
in the putty, then push a tissue over the top and through the abutment. This way you can spray the abutment and the part of the analog
that's out of the putty while it's in the putty, and save on getting the over-spray on the putty.

 

[rkm rdt]

Thanks for the tip

 

[Smithwick0208]

how does this compare to the standard putty that 3shape provides? firmness? stickiness?