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I also have the pop 2. I agree the software is awful. I never thought of using it for dental use.

That's great! I used to use them before I started to print my own models. My post is directed more towards those that may have trouble because of how they make their models or maybe they would like to go with a smaller company for a more personal experience. I have no hate towards Argen, as they...

Good point. I'm located in central CT. Local is great but I'm happy to ship within the US.

Hello. I'm a long - time lurker on these forums but rarely start threads. I've noticed a growing frustration with large companies such as Argen for model printing. I have a small company that works in both FDM and resin and would like to offer my services to other small labs. I have over...

I use Blender 4 Dental for model software and I love it.

If you're asking about general LCD printers: Many people use the Amaralabs town: https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/ The article will explain how to use it best. I generally don't run exposure tests unless I have a problem or am stumped by a resin. Even if your town test...

Did you try Dental Wings support instead of Straumann? Straumann won't help me either but Dental Wings will. I email support and they're fairly quick to answer.

I didn't know Phrozen was coming out with a "dental" printer. I'll look into it. Epax also has some nice printers suited for dental. They're basically the X and E series, but with a lower z height and a heated vat. My X10 with the 8k screen does wonderfully with crown and bridge models.

I would start with the manufacturers setting, run a test and see where you're at. Every LCD screen is going to be a little different and there are other factors like the thickness of your model and ambient temperature.

I haven't done surgical guides yet so I'm not familiar with that resin. But in general, if you set the exposure too high while printing, it can cause dimensional issues. There are exposure tests out there that are flat with details. They print quick and you can see if your details are not...

This is off the Epax X10 with the 8K screen. These models are done in Dental Wings, but I prefer B4D for model creating. You can over expose the resin, bloating the print and leaving the dies tight and not fitting the coping. I worked for a while with my SM4K to get the correct fit with this...

It's a nice little machine, especially for the price. I was thinking of picking up the SM8K. Slightly finer resolution across a larger build plate.

I've been using Anycubic Craftsman in beige. It also comes in grey and apricot. It's not a "dental" resin but works really nicely for models. I've also been using it on my Epax X10 8K with great success.

Thank you for the link. I had read that thread a while back but I'll give it another read. I'm not sure I can convince this Dr to do three steps when right now he can hit one button and have it sent to another lab. We're getting very little support from the company and it's been overall...

Did your issue with downloading get resolved? I use the Itero dashboard. I click on the case and it prompts to see Rx, download scan, print Rx, or view scan. Occasionally the dashboard won't connect for a few minutes, but I haven't had any problems downloading..... except that one time where...

I came here to figure out the same thing. We don't have 3Shape but want to accept files through Communicate. I figured out how to save the scan as an .stl but it has to be saved on a folder and then sent through a different method. I'm trying to find a way where the dr can just hit the button...

Phrozen is up to 8K (resolution) machines now. The SM8K runs about $600 with a 7.1 inch build plate and the Mighty is $1600 and I think it's 10 inches? Probably bigger. I have a SM4K and do accurate crown and bridge models. But we're not that busy and I can get away with a small machine for...

Are you still having troubles? Photos of your settings, orientation in the slicer, and your failures would be helpful. If your model is coming off the supports and sticking to the FEP, then you may want to change the angle, use heavier supports, and/or increase your exposure time. Your build...

I started when I was 25 and am now 46 . I learned to do everything by hand, but because I was (am still) the youngest, I learned the digital stuff as it came available. I'm more of an independent contractor now instead of an employee. Life and this industry has changed so much so quickly.

I've had this same problem with Katana. It disappeared when we serviced the dryer for the compressor... so I'm pretty sure it's either oil from the high speed and/or moisture from the air lines. I used a brush instead of the air for a little while and the problem disappeared and hasn't come back...