Help anybody with 9 unit zirconia bridge!

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AKDental

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Hi I just wanted to know if i am milling a 9 unit zirconia bridge. Do i need to
create a support bar or anything like that or can i just mill the bridge as is and
then sinter. I will use the standard 9 hr sintering cycle too as i
feel a fast sinter( for me fast sinter is currently 6 hr program anyway, but still....)
and i am using zirlux 16+ preshaded zirconia by zahn dental/henry schein.
anyone??
 
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Im pretty sure nobody is using zirlux, but why not add a support bar it cant hurt..
 
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im using it because i have a dwx4 and so i don't really have that many options....using wut i got. but works out ok.oh and ive never actually made a support bar which is why i was asking. so if possible id rather do it without.
 
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if you have any suggestions for a different zirconia that i could use with my machine, i would
love any advice!
 
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I would go with sagemax nexxzrT as a comparable zirconia. I try to give as little money as possible to zahn. If you want something that actually looks like teeth, go with the nexxzr+ or multilayer. Its not that expensive and its made in the US, not china.

You can probably get away without the supports, or you can just redo it when its warped and add them then..
 
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Depends on the overall arch of the bridge. If your going from 4-12 Then yes, if you never sintered without supports. Post a pic of the bridge from the occlusal view. I can draw the supports on the image for you. As for the ZR I use Argen HT plus and Ivoclar Prime.
 
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Are you sure ZirLux is from China?
LCM
 
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Not sure, but if you cant find any info about where its from, I can only assume. If anyone has any info to the contrary Id love to see it.
 
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Ive never had to use support. Beyond +. Just make sure your beads are single layer so they move like bearings.
 
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I would go with sagemax nexxzrT as a comparable zirconia. I try to give as little money as possible to zahn. If you want something that actually looks like teeth, go with the nexxzr+ or multilayer. Its not that expensive and its made in the US, not china.

You can probably get away without the supports, or you can just redo it when its warped and add them then..
Youve praised Nexxzr before. I see you mentioned 'T' here. How does it compare to Nexxzr +?
 
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The T is stronger and more opaque. But it doesnt really compare other than its made by the same company. The + is pretty much all I use, although Ive had some breakage on thin 2nd molars, so I will use the T for those.
 
CoolHandLuke

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The only thing you need really, for bridgework >4units is slow temp rise. Quick temp rise can make it uneven heating, which can cause cracks and warps by prematurely overheating one section of the bridge. This is why some manufacturers add bars, its a way to pull the heat out of the bridge like the heatsink of your electronic devices. Even heating is the absolute key to perfect units.
 
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