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2thm8kr

2thm8kr

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the task is to insert the tooth, so insert the tooth. what could be difficult about it?
I once had a doctor tell me on a difficult case, "The path of insertion is through the lips." I guess it is here too.Vroam
 
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KC Joe

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Not sure if this is the thread to post this on, however I would appreciate some input. This is the upper half of a full mouth we delivered about a month ago. Apparently the patient got in a wrestling match with his dog. The dog won. :rolleyes: Noritake EX3 on Platinum + alloy. Anyone have experience with a repair like this?
IMG-8682.jpg IMG-8683.jpg
 
Car 54

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What about using Addmate? pg 29
 

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JKraver

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Not sure if this is the thread to post this on, however I would appreciate some input. This is the upper half of a full mouth we delivered about a month ago. Apparently the patient got in a wrestling match with his dog. The dog won. :rolleyes: Noritake EX3 on Platinum + alloy. Anyone have experience with a repair like this?
View attachment 37077 View attachment 37078
Looks like no fun, could you just add opaque to the area, then build up like normal?
 
Car 54

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That's what Addmate, low temp add on is supposed to be able to do for us. So we're not running it up to the normal higher temps under vacuum, possibly causing more problems than what is already trying to be repaired.
 
JMN

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That's what Addmate, low temp add on is supposed to be able to do for us. So we're not running it up to the normal higher temps under vacuum, possibly causing more problems than what is already trying to be repaired.
Sounds like a very handy tool!
 
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KC Joe

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That's what Addmate, low temp add on is supposed to be able to do for us. So we're not running it up to the normal higher temps under vacuum, possibly causing more problems than what is already trying to be repaired.
yeah, I've used Addmate, just not on an area this large...or this visible. Guess it's time to find out
 
Car 54

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It may look a little patched, but hopefully close enough to be acceptable. Maybe you'll surprise yourself and pull it off.

In the past the clinker for me was the opaque layer in getting that right and to not headlight though or show a seam, fortunatly it looks like a small area. Hopefully a case that big won't thermo crack. But what are your other options, but to wait overnight and see if someone else has an idea, especially another Noritake user on this forum.
 
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Sda36

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Not sure if this is the thread to post this on, however I would appreciate some input. This is the upper half of a full mouth we delivered about a month ago. Apparently the patient got in a wrestling match with his dog. The dog won. :rolleyes: Noritake EX3 on Platinum + alloy. Anyone have experience with a repair like this?
View attachment 37077 View attachment 37078
If its a retrievable case, I would prep it down for a wrap-around veneer, careful to not expose more metal or opaque. Etch porcelain then use some Gradia, or like, light cure opaque of appropriate shade to cover just the exposed metal area. Silinate the bridge and veneer and resin bond. No furnace for that beauty! If not retrievable, same process for Dr. Opaque 1st and could also use different color try in pastes to nail the shade outcome beforehand. Same procedure, etch and silinate both, a touch of composit primer (on opaque only) then resin bond.
 
millennium

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If you can get your hands on finesse opaque and ducera lfc porcelain which fires at 1256F high temp you could fix this. Sorry image sideways. thumbnail_20201020_181517.jpg
 
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KC Joe

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If its a retrievable case, I would prep it down for a wrap-around veneer, careful to not expose more metal or opaque. Etch porcelain then use some Gradia, or like, light cure opaque of appropriate shade to cover just the exposed metal area. Silinate the bridge and veneer and resin bond. No furnace for that beauty! If not retrievable, same process for Dr. Opaque 1st and could also use different color try in pastes to nail the shade outcome beforehand. Same procedure, etch and silinate both, a touch of composit primer (on opaque only) then resin bond.
Thanks! I'm giving it a go w/ Addmate. Your suggestion gives me an option if this doesn't work. If you were to do this, how would you make the veneer? I'm only doing pressed Emax...haven't done a refractory veneer in several years.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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I would blame the metal design over the dog. That metal looks sharp. Note that the opaque came off as well.
Soften the metal and sandblast the small area. I h
Emax would be my choice 🙂
press a repair piece?
 
Car 54

Car 54

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Thanks! I'm giving it a go w/ Addmate. Your suggestion gives me an option if this doesn't work. If you were to do this, how would you make the veneer? I'm only doing pressed Emax...haven't done a refractory veneer in several years.

Take an alginate or a pvs of the prepped veneer, pour it up in die stone, wax your veneer and press your emax wax pattern, or repair piece as rkm mentioned.

I as others here are still concerned about running that case up again in a oven.
 
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rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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Take an alginate or a pvs of the prepped veneer, pour it up in die stone, wax your veneer and press your emax wax pattern, or repair piece as rkm mentioned.

I as others here are still concerned about running that case up again in a oven.
 
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