Zirconia C shades

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dandyfop

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Hey everyone,

I'm using Argen Z esthetic and ZZ water-based stains.

I've managed to nail the A range by mixing in a health portion of B range liquids to bring up the yellow. The D are good just needed to find the right dilution. But the C's are not good.

I've sampled the Origin 4.1 C3 and it's better, but it's still reddish like the ZZ. I can't seem to find enough green in my C shades, and without any green shade to combine it with I can't "make" it by mixing.

Any suggestions of which other brands dipping liquid to try?

I even thought of being crazy enough to get the chlorides used to create the stains and try DIY my own dipping liquid. But that's crazy...
 
RileyS

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The few I've done in that combination of materials, I dip the crown for 10 seconds, then it usually sits for another minute on a tissue while I do the rest of the crowns, I dry it off with the tissue then put it in the toaster oven at about 200° for about two minutes. This will dry it enough for additional coloring to actually absorb. Then I use a little micro brush to paint on another layer of the C shade, 3 to 4 painted Strips on occlusion, then I paint on incisal shades to the cusps and they usually come out pretty dang close, at least 90% so it'll just be a quick enhancing with stain and glaze.
 
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Hey everyone,

I'm using Argen Z esthetic and ZZ water-based stains.

I've managed to nail the A range by mixing in a health portion of B range liquids to bring up the yellow. The D are good just needed to find the right dilution. But the C's are not good.

I've sampled the Origin 4.1 C3 and it's better, but it's still reddish like the ZZ. I can't seem to find enough green in my C shades, and without any green shade to combine it with I can't "make" it by mixing.

Any suggestions of which other brands dipping liquid to try?

I even thought of being crazy enough to get the chlorides used to create the stains and try DIY my own dipping liquid. But that's crazy...
PM me your address if you like. $100 bucks and Ill send you a sampler of 7 or 8 popular C-2 or C-3s for you to try.
 
rc75

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Hey everyone,

I'm using Argen Z esthetic and ZZ water-based stains.

I've managed to nail the A range by mixing in a health portion of B range liquids to bring up the yellow. The D are good just needed to find the right dilution. But the C's are not good.

I've sampled the Origin 4.1 C3 and it's better, but it's still reddish like the ZZ. I can't seem to find enough green in my C shades, and without any green shade to combine it with I can't "make" it by mixing.

Any suggestions of which other brands dipping liquid to try?

I even thought of being crazy enough to get the chlorides used to create the stains and try DIY my own dipping liquid. But that's crazy...


Just buy pre-shaded C shades save the headache.
 
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dandyfop

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RIleyS, Thanks for the ideas, but the hue is off. Color saturation is a much easier thing to deal with is the hue is true. Maybe it's in combination with my oven. (Nabertherm monster, forgot the model)

rc75, preshaded would be way too much of a pain for my lab. Getting up from my chair? oh man. Try to limit it. ;)

User name, I think I will take you up on that. What will be in the sampler?

Thanks guys! We must defeat the giants lab, and keep our careers, by being excellent. For as long as it will last.
 
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RIleyS, Thanks for the ideas, but the hue is off. Color saturation is a much easier thing to deal with is the hue is true. Maybe it's in combination with my oven. (Nabertherm monster, forgot the model)

rc75, preshaded would be way too much of a pain for my lab. Getting up from my chair? oh man. Try to limit it. ;)

User name, I think I will take you up on that. What will be in the sampler?

Thanks guys! We must defeat the giants lab, and keep our careers, by being excellent. For as long as it will last.
PM'd
 
Polarmolar

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Usually ZZ A shades hit pretty good for me , I'd be worried about hour dilution strength. I only paint mine at full strength on tho and I'm Pretty happy with them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Andrew Abram

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I'm using Bruxzir anterior shaded 450 with lava plus coloring liquid. C2 and C3 come almost close to or slight hair lighter then shade tab. The grey you need is in the zirconia puck already and the lava liquid gives you enough yellow for the ideal combination. Only down side is it's strength is only 650mp. Hope this helps

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Car 54

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I'm using Bruxzir anterior shaded 450 with lava plus coloring liquid. C2 and C3 come almost close to or slight hair lighter then shade tab. The grey you need is in the zirconia puck already and the lava liquid gives you enough yellow for the ideal combination. Only down side is it's strength is only 650mp. Hope this helps

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Nice helpful 1st post Andrew, thanks for chiming in. Welcome to the forum :)
 
Jenners

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I had trouble with C shades as well with ZZ liquids. I experimented a bit with extra zirconia. I use C4 shade only, lighten it with the thinner , progressively more for each lighter shade and add a small part of orange 1 from the Preattau line of the ZZ liquids. I've gotten the color pretty spot on for opaque to slightly translucent zirconia blocks.
 
deadhead

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Zenostar liquids from IVOCLAR are pretty good liquids. We used them with our DOCERAM material and had great results, but now we use DOCERAM's pre-shaded pucks and also have had great success. Our ceramist love the shaded pucks. not much bench work except added some highlight colors and glaze and polish and out the door
 
JohnWilson

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We have migrated to White Peaks Copra smile, while its cubic it is giving us very good shades using their colorants. The chroma is much improved over many other systems. For High strength bridges we are use prettau and white peaks liquid.

The funny thing while C shades are tough with just about any combo, its the D shade in HS zirconia that is very hard to hit.

We have been experimenting with the Pritidenta multi and I have to say so far looks like a really great disk. Reach out to atlantadental.com tell them I referred you,
 
eyeloveteeth

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^ agree with john - it's the High Strength D2 shade that always looks washed out in the mouth.

We are using Zirkonzahn and Chang's liquid mixed.

I've been meaning to try out the Pritidenta stuff.


We are also hoping that Sagemax's new Zr will cover our needs better.
 

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