Shofu porcelain

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Holmes1722

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Does anyone use shofu vintage and what are your opinions ?
 
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RJS8669

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Very nice. Handles well. Low-shrinkage. Excellent shades. I really don't have anything bad to say, and we've been using it for about 2 years.
 
Edy

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Very nice. Handles well. Low-shrinkage. Excellent shades. I really don't have anything bad to say, and we've been using it for about 2 years.
how is shofu rated with top porcelains ?? from which i know so far top porcelains for metal crowns are D.sign , Noritake , Inline , vita master ......
 
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MasterCeramist

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Has anyone tried shofu's new one shot porcelain for one powder buildups?
 
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martintay

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how is shofu rated with top porcelains ?? from which i know so far top porcelains for metal crowns are D.sign , Noritake , Inline , vita master ......
Edy VMK Master , i hope you are joking !! lol !!
 
Edy

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Edy VMK Master , i hope you are joking !! lol !!

nope , u will be surprised to know that great technicians in my country are using vmk , i tried it too but switched to noritake because of the CZR on zirconia , later got the EX3 too . . .
 
hammerhead

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Has anyone tried shofu's new one shot porcelain for one powder buildups?

Master -Yes we use it for difficult cases where its imparitive for translucency without much room.
Has filled a void that took much more work with gc.
Give it a try ,what do u have to lose.1 bottle of porc.!!!!!!
 
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A good mate of mine was a shofu demonstrator for over 10 years. I bumped into him at IDS in Cologne where he was demonstrating another top end ceramic. I spent the rest of the day with him walking around. I asked if he could choose any ceramic to use what would he use. He replied that he would use shofu , possibly because thats what he is most used to and used the longest. The others he would use are GC, Creation or Ivoclar.
 
kcdt

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I've had very good experiences with Vintage. Easy to work with, whether you keep it simple or do multi powder builds. I now a number of great cosmetic labs that include it in their lineup.
 
designasmile

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Shofu Halo is the latest and most complete system in the Vintage line. Their opal incisals look great.
 
Edy

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A good mate of mine was a shofu demonstrator for over 10 years. I bumped into him at IDS in Cologne where he was demonstrating another top end ceramic. I spent the rest of the day with him walking around. I asked if he could choose any ceramic to use what would he use. He replied that he would use shofu , possibly because thats what he is most used to and used the longest. The others he would use are GC, Creation or Ivoclar.

I would recommend to your mate Noritake CZR and EX3 , i just love it . Tried inline , design , vita vmk and ceramco3 , nothing pleased me like noritake so far , never tried shofu and gc , maybe will get a bottle of each ;)
 
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I have tried the cerabien porcelain and didn't like it much, I was using creation at the time. I saw their stand at IDS and didn't like any of the work on the stand, mostly over polished and very fake looking. Not really great lighting there so I can't say I'd change my mind. I'm currently using vm 13 and am not getting on with it at all, the incisals are nice, however the margin powders are very bony looking and make the crowns look dense. I spoke to vita and they recommended using effect liner on the margin to combat this ,probably from higher fluorecence. I've just got a trial kit of inline now as I really liked the old ivoclar classic. It seems to give a nice result. I guess given the choice I'd be using either GC or Creation, very similar as both made in the Klema factory.
 
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chickenlicken

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I have not tried Shofu, ceramco or the ex3 yet.
 
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martintay

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You can still buy classic- beautiful porcelain, my only complaint was lack of chroma thus didn`t match the shade guide without modification.The impulse kit has great effects !!
 
Car 54

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I've used Shofu since Vintage came out ~1990-1991? through the transition into Vintage Halo, which I'm now using. It has excellent shades out of the bottle, yet IMO, are about 1/2 shade light on a completed crown. So I bump up the chroma of the opaque, the OD (I mix it 1:1 with body) and the body, and come out with some nice results. Halo is fritted to be a smaller gain size (kinder to the opposing) has a wider CTE range for metals, and has ~ 5-7% of red shift to it, to help mimic natural pink in teeth and the oral environment..i.e. look at the Vita 3D guide, more pinks, especially in the 2M1/3M1/4M1 etc. In this regard, I think Yamamoto was ahead of the curve. It's been a solid, reliable performer that I would class it in the middle range as far as not a translucent system, but not an opaque system either.

I only use opal when I see it during shade taking, otherwise I just use the Std. Inc. along with TGlass, and TO as needed, mixed with the Inc. and even opal Inc. as an Inc. overlay. The Vintage Halo paste opaques are nice, good handling and density, but for the ging. it can lack a little of the chroma intensity I'm looking for, it's a "flat" chroma look, more of a value range, so I mix Creations paste opaque 1:1 for the ging. 1/3rd to bump up the vividness of the chroma. I think they are phasing out of the Halo paste opaques, and replacing them with the MP paste opaques, which are even better than the Halo version. More information can be found here, concerning Vintage MP.

I don't have any cracking issues, using an H.N. alloy in about the 14.2 CTE range (45-SF Argen) and Jensen's Stability for my Noble alloy 13.9 CTE @ 600C. Interproximal tearing isn't to bad, and is easily filled in and fused on 2nd or final bakes.

A good book to get, or to look into if you're really curious, is Esthetics of Anterior Fixed Prosthodontics by Dr Chiche and Alain Pinault, as he (Alain) shares some "cookbook" formulas he uses (Vintage). And the Yamamoto Metal Ceramic's book (if you can still find it),is a excellent resource, even though it was with the 1st generation, Crystar.
 
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ts4341

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Any Vintage ZR or MP Users out there?
 
Pieter

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Chroma plus is what you should use at the margin area- then base denting over it. My two cents - know your porcelain and learn to work with it. Does not matter which brand
 
ts4341

ts4341

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Chroma plus is what you should use at the margin area- then base denting over it. My two cents - know your porcelain and learn to work with it. Does not matter which brand
I disagree... Some porcelains are junk and even a magic wand isn't going to help them.. VM13 for instance is a cracking and tearing nightmare.. And other porcelains look like $h1t no matter what Guru tech worked with it.
 
Car 54

Car 54

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Let alone the amount of effort it takes to get there, a 8-10 powder build up, compared to a 15-20 powder build up for some systems
 

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