Quick Sintering Zolid FX Zirconia

[deadhead]

hello everyone, so we started using the Zolid FX Zirconia from AG. We are using the pre-shaded and pure translucent materials. We have been getting good results but was just wondering if anyone tried sintering this zirconia using the 2 hr quick fire cycle. We do not currently own their oven that has this program, but we have a Programat S1 furnace that has a 3 hr quick fire for the material we were and currently are still using. has anyone tried to program the 2 hr cycle for the Zolid FX material and sinter with the S1. I know the heating elements on the S1 are ment for rapid heat up and cool down but not sure if it could handle the 2 hr cycle. if anyone has tried this or knows if it is possible please let me know. any information would be greatly apperciated. thanks

 

[Polarmolar]

I've done cubex2 quick sinter at 3 hr cycles with no issues. The S1 is a beast and it even has a 90 min program but I'm a chicken and went 3 hrs with a custom program. Just make sure the hold time is the same as what is needed to fully sinter.


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[user name]

I haven't tried the FX yet; I use Katana STML, and Im thinking theyre similar. Katana was advertising for a while that they had a quick sinter cycle now, but that's been pulled. I don't know if it was detrimental to the appearance or strength, but I believe anything 'good' is worth waiting for.

 

[sirmorty]

I cant get the Katana STML to look very good.
Not sure what my problem is. Tried adjusting hold times and temps. But it just looks dead.

Can you share your sintering program?

 

[user name]

I cant get the Katana STML to look very good.
Not sure what my problem is. Tried adjusting hold times and temps. But it just looks dead.

Can you share your sintering program?

I just got a text from a Doc yesterday about a lower anterior 4 unit I did with it..said the patient was in tears she was so happy. In the Mihm Vogt HT Speed, Im doing it on beads, covered, and ...

10 degrees/minute to 1530
Hold 2 hours, slow cool.

I have the program set to cool at 10/minute too, but it actually is much slower.

If it looks dead, are you moving your units in the puck up so you take advantage of the trans layers? I cut everything from 14mm, and my hyperdent wants to automatically center everything, so if the crown is only 8mm tall youd be loosing 3m of the trans layer if you don't move it up.

 

[sirmorty]

Yeah I moved them up in the puck to try and take advantage of the trans layer.

I have been firing at 1550 like they suggest. Maybe I should try going lower temp.

thanks for the info.

 

[user name]

Yeah I moved them up in the puck to try and take advantage of the trans layer.

I have been firing at 1550 like they suggest. Maybe I should try going lower temp.

thanks for the info.

What oven are you using?

You can get some different look to it if you do a 30 minute hold at 1000. Just tossing that out if you ever want to experiment.

 

[Polarmolar]

Check your furnace calibration it might be firing low. I thought it needs to fire hot to get that translucency.


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[sirmorty]

Yeah I thought It would need to be a higher temp. to get the translucency aswell, That is why I tired increasing the temp. and tried a bit longer hold time.
But that was not the case.

 

[CreDes]

This is Bob from CAP's program that I have used:

Here you go. This program was developed for a Dekema 664. I'm not sure how it will work in a Mihm Vogt.
Room temp to 900 at 60C per/min
900 to 1350 at 12C per/min
1350-1450 15 C per/ min
Hold for 65 minutes.
Rapid cool.
Keep in mind the limit of units is 12 for the smaller 664 and 15 units in the larger 674 furnaces. I would think the Mihm Voght is more like the 674.
This is for single units only, NO bridges.
Let us know how it goes.

 

[deadhead]

with the new multi-layer shaded pucks from AG(Zolid-FX Multi-layered) the Zirconia contains cubic ZR and thats why it fires at 1450 because since they added cubic ZR to their powder if you over heat your color will be off because you will be burning the cubic ZR. just spoke with an AG rep about this and thats what he said. they added cubic ZR to get the strength and a better "realistic" look so if you fire too high you will get the "dull/fake" look. we were using ZOLID FX with the pre-sinter liquids and now we use their multi-layer pre shaded pucks, but to achieve good shades we noticed you have to use 16mm or higher in puck thickness so you can move the units up or down depending on how much trans u want. AG is also coming out the pre-shaded pucks too, so then you wouldnt have to worry about placement since the puck will be same shade throughout. hope this infor is helpful. happy milling

 

[PDC]

I cant get the Katana STML to look very good.
Not sure what my problem is. Tried adjusting hold times and temps. But it just looks dead.
?

I don't do the milling stuff but I've noticed that I get a "frosty" appearance on a lot of the "translucent " zirconia I get back. I've noticed it with the Katana and the Anterior zirconia from Argen. It's like microscopic bubbles just under the surface and it seems to be a consistent issue with these.

 

[Polarmolar]

I don't do the milling stuff but I've noticed that I get a "frosty" appearance on a lot of the "translucent " zirconia I get back. I've noticed it with the Katana and the Anterior zirconia from Argen. It's like microscopic bubbles just under the surface and it seems to be a consistent issue with these.

Really ? Thats probably them not cleaning it correctly ; I haven't seen that on Argen anterior or cubex2 or katana but we mill all I. House.


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[ps2thtec]

I don't do the milling stuff but I've noticed that I get a "frosty" appearance on a lot of the "translucent " zirconia I get back. I've noticed it with the Katana and the Anterior zirconia from Argen. It's like microscopic bubbles just under the surface and it seems to be a consistent issue with these.

Ive seen that also, posted last year somewhere here about it, saw after glaze kind of a sparkly white. It was
on cubeX2. If I rubber wheeled the surface it would not appear. As if the dust from finishing the crown
filled in the pores. Switched to nexxr+ . No more sparkle

 

[JMN]

@CreDes attribution is very cool.

 

[BobCDT]

I cant get the Katana STML to look very good.
Not sure what my problem is. Tried adjusting hold times and temps. But it just looks dead.

Can you share your sintering program?

STML is a really beautiful material. This is likely a sintering problem. What furnace and program are you using? Can you take a photo with a glazed crown next to the appropriate shade guide and post it.
Here are some of the possible reasons:
- contaminated furnace
- wrong sintering cycle
- correct cycle but sintering furnace is not calibrated properly. 30-degree variation will effect esthetic outcome of this material
What sintering furnace are you using?

 

[Zubler USA]

sirmorty - if you have a Mihm Vogt, then the program that USER NAME has will probably work. If you have a Shenpaz then the program that CreDes gave you will probably work. If you have a different oven, then it will probably require a different final temp because the calibration is different from Manufacturer to manufacturer and there is no international standard as of yet for ovens above 1200C!

Sooooo no to brands fire alike!

Eliminate the contamination possibility, then call the oven manufacturer to see if they know where their temps are for any materials. Once you find out what they know, you can do a comparative analysis against the same materials from other users with other machines to find out where you should be.

 

[labtek]

Other than CAP/Zahn/Schein who else sales the Dekema 674i sintering furnaces?