orange peel texture on emax pressing

[NicelyMKV]

Riley, you can get the large ibex VERY reasonable from Shari at Nowak 855-378-0900

I could not believe their price compared to other distributors of ibex

I let my ring set a little longer to solidify investment. It's a German thing lol.


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[RileyS]

Thanks!

 

[karabear]

Don't use debubblizer!!! It keeps investment from setting up properly.


When looking at the "orangle peel" issue - Turn down the heat... Don't just look at the pressing oven, look at the burnout oven.

I just started at a lab; I am doing Emax. I was having terrible trouble with bubbles until I returned to using debubblizer per my boss's request. (Mizzy, I believe it is called, with PressVest Speed and DVA separator). Reaction layer is rough sometimes, and other times it's tolerable. I have been reading all the threads today concerning the reaction layer. I will try to play with those variables that I can control, (being that I am just a "grunt" now). Hopefully I can reduce the severity of the reaction layer and thus speed up my productivity.

 

[user name]

No debubblizer, surfactants or surface tension relievers! Massage the investment into and on to the crowns with a brush.

 

[TheLabGuy]

Debubblizer depends if your using hand waxup or whether your milling your waxups...milled you have to use a water based (not alcohol) debubblizer. It's nearly impossible to break the surfactant on the milled waxups you have to use a debubblizer but hand waxing there is no need.

 

[karabear]

They are milled.
Much has been said about the interaction between the debubblizer and investment, namely its degradation when used with the former. Maybe I just haven't read the threads, but is there an effect of the separator on the investment's integrity?
The surface tension with these waxups seems so much greater than when I last worked in a lab and used Ney die lube and saturated the hand waxed copings with debubblizer. Is it simply because they are milled that their texture resists the flow of investment? Or is it the kind of wax? Or perhaps it is because I am the finisher now as well so that I actually see the resulting bubbles? So many questions. So little time. [sigh]

 

[NicelyMKV]

I use a small brush to make sure I have no trapped air. I've invested multiple brands of hand wax as well as milled wax. I get the same results from them all. I do not allow my guys to use any debubblizer etc.. It's all in the care taken while investing. The brush was a big help to me versus an instrument.

 

[TheLabGuy]

They are milled.
Much has been said about the interaction between the debubblizer and investment, namely its degradation when used with the former. Maybe I just haven't read the threads, but is there an effect of the separator on the investment's integrity?
The surface tension with these waxups seems so much greater than when I last worked in a lab and used Ney die lube and saturated the hand waxed copings with debubblizer. Is it simply because they are milled that their texture resists the flow of investment? Or is it the kind of wax? Or perhaps it is because I am the finisher now as well so that I actually see the resulting bubbles? So many questions. So little time. [sigh]

The milled wax-ups most likely have resin in them. As I eluded to earlier, the surface tension on those milled wax-ups is very difficult to remove. Therefore, a surfactant/debubblizer is needed, but not alcohol based. Most debubblizers are not water soluble and alcohol based...these type react to the investment in a way you won't like. Furthermore, after you've placed your milled wax-ups in the sprue former, spray some water based surfactant on them. I use Harvest "Surfactant" Bubble-Free Pink liquid. Let that air dry and invest with or without a small brush and you'll be good to go. We had the same issues till we discussed it with a leader in the dental industry and he broke it down barney style for me.

 

[debubblizer.com]

The milled wax-ups most likely have resin in them. As I eluded to earlier, the surface tension on those milled wax-ups is very difficult to remove. Therefore, a surfactant/debubblizer is needed, but not alcohol based. Most debubblizers are not water soluble and alcohol based...these type react to the investment in a way you won't like. Furthermore, after you've placed your milled wax-ups in the sprue former, spray some water based surfactant on them. I use Harvest "Surfactant" Bubble-Free Pink liquid. Let that air dry and invest with or without a small brush and you'll be good to go. We had the same issues till we discussed it with a leader in the dental industry and he broke it down barney style for me.

Have you try to use Russman Debubblizer Surfactant before?

 

[user name]

No need to try it. Debubblizers are all basically the same. Water, propylene glycol and maybe some citric acid. Because of the boiling point of 212,(check your MSDS) we know that the propylene % has to be less than 30 or the boil would be higher. Oddly, the surfactants with lower glycol seem to break tension better. The citric acid just makes the water 'softer'. If you want to get the same thing and save money, just go to the Dollar store and get some Finish Jet Dry.

 

[invent dental]

Here is an updated instruction of the Super Ring

 

[AL1]

if you are having emax press problems you should buy my ivoclar ep 3010 only 11 press cycles.