Methods of staining Zirc with Tanaka

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e...w...h

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We pretty much follow the included instructions here, but I'm sure there are folks that have worked outside the box... care to share?
 
Joe

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we were getting really inconsistent results with the tanaka stains especially with A shades. I never really liked the C shades either. We've been trying out the various dipping liquids out there. I like the penetration w dip; if you have to adjust anything you don't get white/light spots.
 
Joe

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I've used zircon zahn, bruxzir, lava, and the crystal dips (and tanaka stains). The only one that gets close to a C shade is the bruxzir. It's cheap too. We're still experimenting, and from a production standpoint, I'd like to use one system, so it looks like bruxzir is the leading candidate if I had to pick just one product.
 
DMC

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Throw a splash of Grey into the Bruxzir C shades!

We also have tried to mix water/B1/splash of Grey to make C-Shade Incisals to paint on the occlusal.

We do not use Bruxzir shade D2. It is too light. Also, for almost all other shades...we go one or even two steps darker on the cervical with brush, then paint the incisal, then drop into base shade bucket.

After that dries on a glass plate....you can go back and add more stuff.
Just a few seconds of unit sitting on papertowel will suck out some color! It happens FAST. Can't place Bruxzir on absorbent material right out of the color. Be careful over blotting with tissue or ?? Just get 90% of the major standing liquid on surface of Zirconia. (I bet that is Mark's problem, and not sucking more color into the Zirconia)

Brush on or dot-on Cyano-Acr. to make Hypo-Cal spots of White before staining.

Cobalt melts right at high temp for Zirconia and has a great Blue color! Just saying.
 
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