How often do you get rocking bridges?

2thm8kr

2thm8kr

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Another angle. Make the waxer invest and solder the bridges that rock.
After dealing with that p.i.t.a.
May give them motivation to improve their technique.
 
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adamb4321

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The quality of the investment and the expansion ratio can also cause ill fitting bridges.
 
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twinrivers14

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We do the same thing using dental floss to tie down each coping works good i think that a bar is over kill just put regular sprues to the copings and resevoirs on the pontics then just run some connector wax to connect the sprues at the resevoir. theres gonna be cases that you run across that your gonna have to cut and solder but thats because of draw and theres nothing you are gonna do about that.
 
CoolHandLuke

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atopnews.in_usa_files_archaic_humans.jpg

what makes the red man red ?
atopnews.in_usa_files_archaic_humans.jpg
 
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charles007

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Rocking bridges,,,,,,,, whats zat.. No more in years, and I've had my share in past years,,
Techniques I'll share,
Soft wax in all connectors; old Belle de st clair technique..
Glue or zapit, all connectors, instead of soft wax.. Must cut slots in connectors for glue to grab.. Tends to not work without doing this..
Direct spruing using resovoir sprues and soft wax to connect. (Dentifax technique) connect to each resovoir using dead soft wax..
Newer technique, Mill/print ....what a revolutionary technique..
 
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DMC

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We do the same thing using dental floss to tie down each coping works good i think that a bar is over kill just put regular sprues to the copings and resevoirs on the pontics then just run some connector wax to connect the sprues at the resevoir. theres gonna be cases that you run across that your gonna have to cut and solder but thats because of draw and theres nothing you are gonna do about that.

Wanna bet.

There is flexible wax with memory at room temp.

I can pull a pattern off a football shaped crown almost.
 
wwcanoer

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Couple additional techniques to think about as being possible cause for problems.

Your sprue wire probably comes off a spool. Long ago, I found that after I snipped off a length, I , then "straightened" it and then attach to waxed bridge, my chances of having a rocking casting increased considerably until I stopped that habit.

This second thought, I haven't completely worked out but: I'm beginning to wonder if the pre-waxed abutments might also be part of the problem.. I finally had worked through my old stock of Williams-Ivoclar abutments ( those light blue forms with the holes in them ),The new ones are definitely made out of a much softer wax. The number of bridges that now need to be soldered since using these new pre-waxed abutments has definitely gone up.
 
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lcsmith0000

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What investment do you guys recommend?
 
Brett Hansen CDT

Brett Hansen CDT

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Thanks for all the advice and tips. We have done 6 bridges in a row now with no rocks. Our waxer is using viscous glue to put the bridge together on the solid model. I am also going to get her some floss to hold the bridge abutments down on cases where using her hands is cumbersome.
 
CoolHandLuke

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of the thousands of bridges i have created over the past 16 months of employment, only 1 rocked.
 
CoolHandLuke

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computer designed, resin printed on dp3500.

the only time my resin patterns rocked was on a particularly tricky 9 unit bridge

we still arent sure what caused it.
 
KentPWalton

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The model has to be cleaned perfectly. No dust under the dies or glue holding them up.

That's usually been the culprit in rocking bridge cases in the past that I've had experience

with. The person scanning has to be really particular and aware of how things are supposed

to look.
 
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chris cdt

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I am trying to help our waxer to decrease the number of bridges we have to cut and solder. I know that scanning and printing them would eliminate this problem, but I don't want to go that route. What percentage of the bridges you wax by hand and then cast end up rocking and have to be soldered? I would say we are around 50%, which is not very good. Here is the technique I am having her use:

-after the bridge is waxed, it is transferred to the solid model
-the bridge is then split between a pontic and one of the abutments
-sprues are attached to the bridge and bar resevoir is attached to the bridge.
-the pontic is reattached to the abutment

I appreciate any input I get.
Cut and duralay the connections. Works like a charm.
 
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Malcolm Graham

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I wax up the bridge on a working model. If the margins are nice and clear so you can see it sitting down on a solid model then I transfer it, if not I leave it on the working model. I then cut through one connection, tack the copings to the dies on the buccal and Lingual to hold them in place. Easy enough to tidy up later. I then flow pattern resin through the connection and wait for it to cure.

I make my own sprue bar out of plastic bar with a layer of wax over it and connect this to bridge with short wax sprues. This is for a 60% AU alloy.
 
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