How do you align your Zr disks ?

[zero_zero]

Had an idea while tinkering on my homebrew cnc, making it easy to repeatably pinpoint the machine zero point...this is for a T-slot plate with various vises/stock, noting like the "dental" fixed geometry holder/stock.

Having marked the disk holder with a sharpie to help align partially used disks, thought that I could adapt it to my DWX50, possibly it could work with other mills as well. Since most Zr manufacturers mark their disks with orientation lines, having a stable projected line could make disk re-alignment a breeze.

Parts cost less than thirty bucks I believe...a laser cross generator with mounting stand and a battery holder with switch.


Proof on concept, this is how would it be mounted inside the mill, would tap/drill some holes and fix it to the spindle cover with bolts, the battery holder will be fixed with a 3M two sided tape. It does clear the cabinet by ~2mm when the X+ axis hits the home switch, still will change that oversized holding bolt with a short set-screw just to be safe, giving an extra 3mm clearance.



Of course it needs some fine tuning at final install....


Will post some pics after when is done.

 

[Sevan P]

Well snap that's a great idea! And that's one hell of a clean Roland. On my VHF mills I just use the Center of the Disk holder and make a single red mark. Since I have a 4axis half disk holder and a 5axis full 360 holder makes aligning supper easy. But this is very trick well done Zero!

It would be super slick that it only turns on and off when the the lid is opened and closed with a little micro switch. Fully automated.

 

[zero_zero]

It would be super slick that it only turns on and off when the the lid is opened and closed with a little micro switch. Fully automated.

For the DWX50 it could be easily wired to one of the doors switches..having the whole thing battery powered, it wouldn't interfere with the mill's electronics.

 

[Sevan P]

For the DWX50 it could be easily wired to one of the doors switches..having the whole thing battery powered, it wouldn't interfere with the mill's electronics.

Do a separate power source for the battery and your set do not tap it into the mills power. Changing batteries would run the cost up, do it once and do it right.

 

[JohnWilson]

On my selects the mill marks the disk with two alignment marks, makes it super easy to reinsert into the fixture. Is part of the cam

 

[Sevan P]

On my selects the mill marks the disk with two alignment marks, makes it super easy to reinsert into the fixture. Is part of the cam

Mine too but having the bur dig into the plastic ring on my talladium disks eats away at the life, so simple red marker is better. But for all zr ring disks I would run the blank marker for sure.

 

[JMN]

Had an idea while tinkering on my homebrew cnc, making it easy to repeatably pinpoint the machine zero point...this is for a T-slot plate with various vises/stock, noting like the "dental" fixed geometry holder/stock.

Having marked the disk holder with a sharpie to help align partially used disks, thought that I could adapt it to my DWX50, possibly it could work with other mills as well. Since most Zr manufacturers mark their disks with orientation lines, having a stable projected line could make disk re-alignment a breeze. p

Parts cost less than thirty bucks I believe...a laser cross generator with mounting stand and a battery holder with switch.
View attachment 21548

Proof on concept, this is how would it be mounted inside the mill, would tap/drill some holes and fix it to the spindle cover with bolts, the battery holder will be fixed with a 3M two sided tape. It does clear the cabinet by ~2mm when the X+ axis hits the home switch, still will change that oversized holding bolt with a short set-screw just to be safe, giving an extra 3mm clearance.

View attachment 21550

Of course it needs some fine tuning at final install....
View attachment 21551

Will post some pics after when is done.

What are you using for xyz drives on your cnc? NEMA 24s? Did you use adafruit's motor driver board?

 

[zero_zero]

The LED in that laser module draws about 2mW, an AA battery holds about 1500mAh juice....it should last a very long time...

 

[JMN]

The LED in that laser module draws about 2mW, an AA battery holds about 1500mAh juice....it should last a very long time...

I built a 1Mhz always on transmitter that lasted 9mos on 2 AAAs. That thing should go at least 1000hrs of on time. You'd be likely to buy a new mill before replacing the battery.

 

[zero_zero]

What are you using for xyz drives on your cnc? NEMA 24s? Did you use adafruit's motor driver board?

Nema 34 (closed loop triple stack MDrive 34's, 1061 oz-in torque) for XYZ...no driver needed, easily controlled by a pulse/dir signal from the Mach4 USB board.

 

[Sevan P]

Nema 34 (closed loop triple stack MDrive 34's, 1061 oz-in torque) for XYZ...no driver needed, easily controlled by a pulse/dir signal from the Mach4 USB board.

You totally Geeked out for a second there. LOL

 

[zero_zero]

You totally Geeked out for a second there. LOL

Oops...wrong forum maybe ?

 

[grantoz]

in ZZ machines you can only place the block one way the blocks have an alignment notch for this reason .im surprised other machines dont have this

 

[JMN]

Nema 34 (closed loop triple stack MDrive 34's, 1061 oz-in torque) for XYZ...no driver needed, easily controlled by a pulse/dir signal from the Mach4 USB board.

Nice!

 

[cadfan]

Hi Zero no time for hunting did they sold you a castrated sum version every new block is marked and nontius function too. Maybe the gagas have a problem with clear coordinates for every mill or they are too lazy. Ah i know the srewed ring is their problem .

 

[Getoothachopper]

Awesome !!! Equipment is just better with freaking laser beams

 

[Ken Knapp]

Nema 34 (closed loop triple stack MDrive 34's, 1061 oz-in torque) for XYZ...no driver needed, easily controlled by a pulse/dir signal from the Mach4 USB board.

What does your "homebrew" CNC mill look like?
Why did you choose Mach4 instead of Mach3?

Great idea!

Ken

 

[zero_zero]

What does your "homebrew" CNC mill look like?
Why did you choose Mach4 instead of Mach3?

Great idea!

Ken

It suppose to become a small lathe with a live tool...more like a mill with a 4000 rpm headstock as A axis, still early in the building process far from making chips (wish I had more free time)...will post some pics when it is in a more presentable stage Thinking of Mach4 because I'd like to control it from a touch screen all-in-one PC, and they don't seem to have parallel ports any more...

 

[CoolHandLuke]

some actual on-puck indexing would be super helpful. like a facet or notch that the block butts up against. like AG machines except not as wacky.