Die Stone.

[ps2thtec]

@user name hey bud, just thinking a little off of your main topic. What do you use to trim dies? You may need to get a bur that is designed to cut smoother. Not necessarily a finer bur, but the angles on cutting surface create basically hammer small amounts of stone off at a time. I think meisinger and some of the komet designs cut cleaner than other brands. Also do you have any rattle, or "gravel" in your handpeice. Never heard a word bad about Fuji rock. I always enjoyed resinrock but never trimmed the actual margin of the dies as I only did the rough trim.

 

[user name]

I used to use that Shofu, but as my magnification increased, my bur size reduced.

One thing Im considering that may be a mistake, is drying models in the food dehydrator. Its 160f tops, but maybe that could have an adverse effect? Im pretty sure all chemical reaction has stopped by the time I stick them in there..several hours, so Im just ensuring theyre dry and will cut nice, but who knows.[/QUOTE]

 

[CatamountRob]

I used to use that Shofu, but as my magnification increased, my bur size reduced.

One thing Im considering that may be a mistake, is drying models in the food dehydrator. Its 160f tops, but maybe that could have an adverse effect? Im pretty sure all chemical reaction has stopped by the time I stick them in there..several hours, so Im just ensuring theyre dry and will cut nice, but who knows.

How long after they're poured are you trimming?

 

[rkm rdt]

How long after they're poured are you trimming?

Right after he's done reading the new posts on DLN.
Poor bugger got home late after the farm Animals Friday thread.

 

[user name]

I pour everything last thing of the day. Separate from impressions next day, usually just before lunch. Trim and set on a towel till news time, then in the dehydrator for an hour so I can drill and glue pins before I go home.

 

[CatamountRob]

I pour everything last thing of the day. Separate from impressions next day, usually just before lunch. Trim and set on a towel till news time, then in the dehydrator for an hour so I can drill and glue pins before I go home.

Nothing wrong with that. I can't see the dehydrator having an affect that long after pouring.

 

[CatamountRob]

I think you should go back to whatever level of magnification you were using before you started seeing a problem that you didn't have.

 

[ps2thtec]

I pour everything last thing of the day. Separate from impressions next day, usually just before lunch. Trim and set on a towel till news time, then in the dehydrator for an hour so I can drill and glue pins before I go home.

You could pour at the end of the day, then saw, trim, and scan by lunch tomorrow!

 

[JMN]

You could pour at the end of the day, then saw, trim, and scan by lunch tomorrow!
View attachment 25014

Really love those trays. The side dots are a nice touch.
I put marker dots at the pinhole where the pin went in, hard to tell sometimes when Dr would send a bridge which holes were being used.

 

[user name]

You could pour at the end of the day, then saw, trim, and scan by lunch tomorrow!
View attachment 25014

Questions: You do that in one pour, so you have to rely on the triple tray bite being correct? Those are limited to only triple tray technique? What are you using on your models that gives them a gloss, and doesn't that make scanning tough?

 

[rkm rdt]

you can adjust the bite with a torch/bunsen

 

[ps2thtec]

Questions: You do that in one pour, so you have to rely on the triple tray bite being correct? Those are limited to only triple tray technique? What are you using on your models that gives them a gloss, and doesn't that make scanning tough?

you can adjust the bite with a torch/bunsen

I have hada few that I had to remount the opp, but it was rather quick, just pulled it off, realign,sticky wax and a little
stone and all done.
The shine is Future after cad is finished. Nice catch.
Haven't tried separately, might be a hassle since I found better dowel alignment by pouring the opp first so I can see
the nurrles .
Dindnt have good luck trying the torch method. Maybe just me.
Here's one I remounted.

 

[JMN]

Questions: You do that in one pour, so you have to rely on the triple tray bite being correct? Those are limited to only triple tray technique? What are you using on your models that gives them a gloss, and doesn't that make scanning tough?

There is a type that you can use on two independant full arch impressions, I didn't care much for it, but I was spoiled bad by the Artimax system.

Artimax flaming is a tad technique sensitive, you have to slowly heat it so it doesn't bubble, and hold it firmly when it cools or it will thermal-contract/memory-distort from your intended bite.

If you want the name of that other system, I'll make a call to someone with a better memory and see if they remember it.

 

[user name]

Much appreciate all the tips, but Im not sold on that type of articulator. Not that's its flawed, Im just resistant to change.

 

[JMN]

Much appreciate all the tips, but Im not sold on that type of articulator. Not that's its flawed, Im just resistant to change.

...when you pry it out of my cold dead hands.

Me too. Change destroys all the patterns and safety habits.

 

[JKraver]

I pour everything last thing of the day. Separate from impressions next day, usually just before lunch. Trim and set on a towel till news time, then in the dehydrator for an hour so I can drill and glue pins before I go home.

Have you noticed issue with trimming them without using dehydrator? Maybe the minimal amount of water would help it cut better?

 

[user name]

Have you noticed issue with trimming them without using dehydrator? Maybe the minimal amount of water would help it cut better?

I haven't noticed a difference there. I was thinking by using the dehydrator I was maybe robbing the stone of time that it needs. Stuff should be fully cured and hard after 24 hours I would think, but models that have sat another day seem to trim nicer. Ive just stopped using so much magnification. A die that is dry and trims very nice under normal conditions still looks crumbly and moist or sticky with too much magnification.

 

[JMN]

I haven't noticed a difference there. I was thinking by using the dehydrator I was maybe robbing the stone of time that it needs. Stuff should be fully cured and hard after 24 hours I would think, but models that have sat another day seem to trim nicer. Ive just stopped using so much magnification. A die that is dry and trims very nice under normal conditions still looks crumbly and moist or sticky with too much magnification.

Most of our stones need around 3 days to set at full reported/claimed strength and hardness. Some of them are nice enough that they'll actually admit this.

 

[JKraver]

Most of our stones need around 3 days to set at full reported/claimed strength and hardness. Some of them are nice enough that they'll actually admit this.

I read 48hrs mostly.

 

[charles007]

Microwave oven !! low power, aprox 150 watts... beta test for several minutes

I place invested rings in micro @ 30% power for 1:45 seconds under paper towel.
Very little burnout smell in your lab since most of the wax has melted out..
No cracking of investment..... scary but it works if you use correct power