Die Stone.

[JMN]

JMN..please don't take that personal.

No problem, Earthling.

 

[vurban210]

Umm...according to their MSDS, its plaster of paris. Just gypsum.

No

 

[Getoothachopper]

I like Whipmix Resin Rock . It hardens up quickly ,I can start working on them after 20 mins. When trimming dies there is no chipping ,it produces fine shavings rather than dust . Whenever I try something new I always come back to this .

 

[JMN]

I like Whipmix Resin Rock . It hardens up quickly ,I can start working on them after 20 mins. When trimming dies there is no chipping ,it produces fine shavings rather than dust . Whenever I try something new I always come back to this .

Interesting, I'll play with a box and see if I have a prejudice or an opinion.

 

[JohnWilson]

Fujirock, best in the world, I buy it by the palate and never complain about cost as its worth every penny.

 

[NicelyMKV]

Amen, brother!


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[NicelyMKV]

Lol geez. Using two different Tapatalk apps.

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[cadfan]

Dentona no 1 strongest in the ... 400 N mm2 and best surface

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

Zhermack Elite rock.
used FujiRock a lot, and ResinRock. both on equal standing. just like the Elite Rock and have been using it for ages. i am, however, always looking for something better. and more importantly an easier and more cost effective way of doing dies and models. its one of the few steps in the lab that hasnt been vastly updated with newer tech and procedures. (before i get jumped on, i am well aware of impression scanning and model free work)

 

[user name]

No

 

[vurban210]

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What is your point? Honestly, I'm not sure what you are even arguing about, so if you can be clear I can tell you why you are wrong.

 

[CatamountRob]

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All that says is that 90+% is plaster of Paris and the balance is non hazardous. I would guess its the -10% non-hazardous part that varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

 

[vurban210]

All that says is that 90+% is plaster of Paris and the balance is non hazardous. I would guess its the -10% non-hazardous part that varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

In addition, depending on the specific hazard class it falls into a chemical is only required to be reported on the SDS if they are above a specific percentage. Add to that the fact that it is possible to claim a "trade secret" that can keep a chemical off the SDS.

Also, the CAS for plaster of paris covers a wide range of materials.

It is kind of like saying that ketchup (or catsup if that's your thing) is simply pureed tomatoes.

 

[ps2thtec]

i am, however, always looking for something better. and more importantly an easier and more cost effective way of doing dies and models.

For single cad work these Mainstay from WMx really are slick. If waxing I prefer a pindex model.
I don't follow the directions. I pour the opposing first.

 

[CatamountRob]

For single cad work these Mainstay from WMx really are slick. If waxing I prefer a pindex model.
I don't follow the directions. I pour the opposing first.

I'm like that too, I eat my dessert first and the salad last. #don'tfollowtheherd

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

For single cad work these Mainstay from WMx really are slick. If waxing I prefer a pindex model.
I don't follow the directions. I pour the opposing first.

i have yet to try the mainstay system. but youre not the first to say you like it. i guess one day ill pick up some and give it a whirl lol

 

[Restorationlab]

50 lbs of each and I mix it. Its not just stirred. I mix. Very mixed.

I know mfrgs have specs about expansion, and hardness, etc, but I know it varies. Maybe not all brands are created equal, but I know how some get their start. Basically a silo where gypsum is ground and there are levels where the dust settles. The finer powder makes it to a higher shelf. Like a sifter. The stuff ships in 100lb paper bags and then its colored and repackaged.



I forgot to ask about hardeners. Ive never used them, so tips there are cool too.

I haven't heard or seen anything about Hi-Tech in Greenback Tennessee for a long time. Anyone using them?

I have been using Hi-Tech scan stone for many years. It works well for me.

 

[JKraver]

@user name hey bud, just thinking a little off of your main topic. What do you use to trim dies? You may need to get a bur that is designed to cut smoother. Not necessarily a finer bur, but the angles on cutting surface create basically hammer small amounts of stone off at a time. I think meisinger and some of the komet designs cut cleaner than other brands. Also do you have any rattle, or "gravel" in your handpeice. Never heard a word bad about Fuji rock. I always enjoyed resinrock but never trimmed the actual margin of the dies as I only did the rough trim.

 

[user name]

@user name hey bud, just thinking a little off of your main topic. What do you use to trim dies? You may need to get a bur that is designed to cut smoother. Not necessarily a finer bur, but the angles on cutting surface create basically hammer small amounts of stone off at a time. I think meisinger and some of the komet designs cut cleaner than other brands. Also do you have any rattle, or "gravel" in your handpeice. Never heard a word bad about Fuji rock. I always enjoyed resinrock but never trimmed the actual margin of the dies as I only did the rough trim.

Those are really good thoughts. Ive tried/used several different burs. Im a Komet guy for most stuff. My inclination to starting the thread falls on too much magnification. Theres a point when enough is enough.
There are a few other issues that got the ball rolling for me on the die stone stuff. I opened a new box of it and has a sizeable piece of multilayered paper bag in it from their bulk supplier. Got me thinking more about where the stuff comes from. I had visited with the owner of Hi-Tech a few years ago and got a pretty cool run down on the process and whats used to color it and how they do custom mixes.
Then I watched a video showing how gypsums are processed. Theres kind of a agitation/tumbling process that puts the powder in suspension and it gets separated buy a very controlled blower that segregates the stuff by gravity. It was just the thought du jour.

 

[JKraver]

You could also go a two bur method where you get 90-95% then go back with a fine bur. I think it is great you want to hone in the margin to perfection, but you may be to the point where a digital scan may be the only way to produce better accuracy.

Edit addition: at what point does your effort become in vain due to the Drs ability to place it in the mouth. A hair too much cement and the margin is fractionally open ect.