Beading and Boxing methods

[Affinity]

wonderfill is crap. whatever stone it touches, doesnt set. Brian Carson has a method using a flexible magnet strip, pretty awesome.

 

[2thm8kr]

wonderfill is crap

 

[JMN]

Isn't that just more expensive playdoh?

wonderfill is crap. whatever stone it touches, doesnt set. Brian Carson has a method using a flexible magnet strip, pretty awesome.

I use play doh, paint the stone side with vaseline. It peels off near completely, and what doesn't boils off because of the vaseline separation layer.

Gonna have to look inyo the magnet strip idea, Thanks!

 

[Doris A]

Use the wonderformer filled with playdoh.....works great!
http://www.wonderfill.com/products/wonderformer/

 

[rkm rdt]

Use the wonderformer filled with playdoh.....works great!

Isn't that a training bra?

 

[Affinity]

im not trying to disparage it, maybe I shouldve used vaseline? Even if I use it to fill a palate on an impression tray, the stone touching it never sets, even if you let it dry.. Its almost strange that they make it for dental stone because Ive never had any luck with it. I let the kids play with it.

 

[2thm8kr]

im not trying to disparage it, maybe I shouldve used vaseline? Even if I use it to fill a palate on an impression tray, the stone touching it never sets, even if you let it dry.. Its almost strange that they make it for dental stone because Ive never had any luck with it. I let the kids play with it.

Your grand kids may have 3 eyes??

 

[JMN]

im not trying to disparage it, maybe I shouldve used vaseline? Even if I use it to fill a palate on an impression tray, the stone touching it never sets, even if you let it dry.. Its almost strange that they make it for dental stone because Ive never had any luck with it. I let the kids play with it.

I'll admit that I've never used any wonderdoh in production. I tested with the sample packs and wasn't impressed enough with water soluability to pay that much more for it.

 

[XxJamesAxX]

Sounds like I may be one of the few here but I like the wonderfill. I use it in combination with there wonderforms instead of bead and box technique.

Now I don't use it on every case. Most cases I just free hand. But I like having it around.

One thing I really like about it is it's easy to show a new tech how to use it and have them pour nice models without making a big mess and lots of clean up on the models.

It's also really nice for blocking out areas you don't want stone to flow. Especially on cast frames around clasp and rest.

As Affinity mentioned it does react funny with the surface of any stone it touches but for me I haven't found it to affect any of the actual working model area. Just seams like the area it touches stays a little softer then the rest of the model. Only the surface though.

Also with its comparison to play dough. I guess in a lot of ways it is similar but one major difference is it doesn't dry out. It's much much more reusable. One bucket last me like 6months plus. Vs play dough I found to not really be reusable. It dries out very easily while your model is curing. It's also a lot stiffer material in comparison to wonderfill.

All just my opinion.... I'm gonna have to look up this magnet strip idea.


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[JMN]

Sounds like I may be one of the few here but I like the wonderfill. I use it in combination with there wonderforms instead of bead and box technique.

Now I don't use it on every case. Most cases I just free hand. But I like having it around.

One thing I really like about it is it's easy to show a new tech how to use it and have them pour nice models without making a big mess and lots of clean up on the models.

It's also really nice for blocking out areas you don't want stone to flow. Especially on cast frames around clasp and rest.

As Affinity mentioned it does react funny with the surface of any stone it touches but for me I haven't found it to affect any of the actual working model area. Just seams like the area it touches stays a little softer then the rest of the model. Only the surface though.

Also with its comparison to play dough. I guess in a lot of ways it is similar but one major difference is it doesn't dry out. It's much much more reusable. One bucket last me like 6months plus. Vs play dough I found to not really be reusable. It dries out very easily while your model is curing. It's also a lot stiffer material in comparison to wonderfill.

All just my opinion.... I'm gonna have to look up this magnet strip idea.


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With play-doh I don't feel sick throwing it away after each use for contamination issues on alginate. I can't see the utility for the price difference. It's a great idea, but I think it is the selling point of water soluble that is causing the stone softness.

Hadn't thought of how eaay training would be. Thanks! Got a guy who's literally begged me to let him come see and he's got smarts too.

 

[denturist-student]

http://www.wonderfill.com

I will use a double bead of periphery wax around the impression and then box it in...For filler I do use wonderfill....works great and get far fewer pressure spots. Nice clean casting as well because bubbles rise...I also have the wonderforms but find they are a bit big...But then they are very fast....

 

[denturist-student]

wonderfill is crap. whatever stone it touches, doesnt set. Brian Carson has a method using a flexible magnet strip, pretty awesome.

never had this problem.

 

[denturist-student]

I think you are all on the same page regarding boxing and beading over the inverted paddy methods of pouring...I always box and bead final impressions and fill with wonderfill.....You get the speed and ease of use and the stuff last along time....as well cleaning up is easy....but for sure boxing and beading leads to far fewer adjustments and sore spots and to me that is a bonus and well worth the effort.....I have even seen someone use a string of window caulk which also works good for beading. Sticky wax on periphery with a layer of beading wax and it should turn out peachy.

 

[AJEL]

Playdo is water soluble and leaves a slight mush surface to lab stone so I let it dry out a little and added some mineral oil, works well for pouring lowers or for getting nice models & borders on relines done in a jig.
I reuse and notice I start getting better control after a few models are made.
Kinda like tom z wonderfill, wonderfill might be better but rather expensive,and I'm a cheap creature of habit and been using my playdo mix since 70's.

 

[CatamountRob]

 

[nvarras]

Master models for dentures, frames night guards and flexible partials get boxed. Everything else gets inverted. I have two price levels for models. Boxed and not boxed. I still use wax. Much smoother than wonderfill. Saves some time on trimming and prepping the land area. Also looks professional.


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[Affinity]

its clearly a problem if they admit it on their own site. Whether it takes an hour or overnight doesnt seem to be the issue. Maybe I got a bad batch? or I should let it dry out some, it dries rock hard pretty quick if its not in the pail.

 

[Patrick Coon]

Man, I am really old school. Been a while, but my favorite and quickest is still the old Plaster and Pumice technique.

 

[JMN]

Man, I am really old school. Been a while, but my favorite and quickest is still the old Plaster and Pumice technique.

Please expound.

 

[Patrick Coon]

Please expound.

50/50 mix of plaster and pumice mixed thick, use it to make patty and set impression in patty. Smooth edges and tongue space with spatula and allow 5 minutes to set. Gently trim to desired land area dimensions with cast trimmer and box with boxing wax. Apply thin coat of separator to pumice/plaster land are and pour.

The pumice added to the plaster weakens it enough to be able to break the plaster away from the tray and cast after the stone has set.

Learned this method in school back in the late 80's. Used many other techniques, including wondercrap (I mean wonderfil),alginate in a plaster bowl, rope and boxing wax, and probably a few more I can't remember. I always still go back to the plaster/pumice method. Easy to control, stable, gives you back what you put into it. I'll see if I can find some old instructional photos and post them.