10 unit Emax Case

Al.

Al.

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Patient is very attractive young woman. She presented like this.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg

These are 3/4 crowns and Venners.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B_1.jpg

Mounted up and waxed full contour

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B2.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B3.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B4.jpg

Make a matrix of the wax and press fit and cut back for layering.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t2.jpg

Stain, build contour and glaze and a must, seat on the solid model.

To do over again I would change the height of contours. I missed them and it is over glazed I think a matte glaze looks much more natural. Also I am not 100% satisfied with the incisal edges.

This is a bleach shade, BL3.
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t6.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t12.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t16.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t17.jpg


This is a bleach shade. A BL3.

Here is the money shot and all that counts.

Before

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg

After

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t23.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t24.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t25.jpg

Here is another case.

BL2 shade.

The key to bleach shades is to be sure and build in trans. and put a small bit of yellow at the cervical. Break up your incisal with different translucencies to it dosent look grey.
Pay attention to your contours and facial anatomy to reflect the light properly and I gave a bit of a matte finish on this case.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t26.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t27.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t28.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t29.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t30.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t31.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B2.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B3.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B4.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t2.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t6.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t12.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t16.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t17.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t23.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t24.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t25.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t26.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t27.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t28.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t29.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t30.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t31.jpg
 
hydent

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very nice, great job on the photos too
 
sixonice

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2 more BEAUTIFUL cases from the "Master!" Adjectives to describe Al's cases: incredible, awesome, marvelous, unbelievable, wonderful, prodigious, astonishing, breathtaking, impressive, awe-inspiring, magnificent, mind-blowing, striking, stunning, majestic, grand & beautiful.

You can be humble all you want, but your work is some of the very best I have ever seen. PERIOD. Your pictures really help us all get a better understanding of how to make our work better.
 
Last edited:
Al.

Al.

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Thanks Guys,
I had a Dr tell me that my glaze was too high and that a matte glaze looks more natural in the mouth.

So I took a couple of crowns and after I glazed them I polished the glaze with a pink rubber wheel to knock down the high shine.

I did it on the 6 units above also.

It gives it a different look in the lab, I dont know how its going to look in the mouth, but I have some ant cases coming up that I will be seeing and getting pics of.

Here are the other ones I rubber wheeled.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a3_1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a4_1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a1_1.jpg

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a5_1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a6_2.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a3_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a4_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a1_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a5_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_a6_2.jpg
 
Wyolab

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Great photos. What do you use to take those shots?
 
sixonice

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I guess glaze and "luster" is defintely a personal preference more than I thought. Some docs like the smooth and shinier, while others like a more muted finish. I always liked the shinier finishes myself acheived with glaze paste, but still with line angles & surface textures (I know! I delicate balance indeed). I have a friend of mine that pumices all his fixed restorative first, then hits with Diashine & a Robinson's, then a dunk in the Ultrasonic. I still think work that may be too matte' could attract tarter and plaque a bit sooner. Subjective for sure, you poll 100 ceramists, I gotta think it would be a 50/50 mix.
 
B

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Awesome work, when do you hold training classes.

what kind of camera are you using. I need a good one for the lab, whatever your using takes very nice photos.
 
sixonice

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Awesome work, when do you hold training classes.

what kind of camera are you using. I need a good one for the lab, whatever your using takes very nice photos.

billydte, dental photography is an art form on itself. ask travis our forum administrator about pictures! exposure, contrast, shutter speed, its endless. people actually take courses on this stuff. you can have a $2000 camera, but if you are not skilled with all of the settings and nuances especially for dental, it can be a very frustrating experience.
 
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billydte

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understand sixonice. I've taken a course on it before and I'm currently working with someone on photography now. But I need to buy a new camera, you can take bad pictures with an expensive camera, but its very hard to take great pictures with a everyday run of the mill camera and right now, I'm using my personal home camera.
 
TheLabGuy

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you can have a $2000 camera, but if you are not skilled with all of the settings and nuances especially for dental, it can be a very frustrating experience.

Six-in-the-belly just described me..........
Thanks
 
Al.

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I use a Cannon XSI Rebel, Sigma 105mm macro lens, Sigma Ring flash.

I got it about a year ago with minimal knowlege of cameras.

I read the cam manual, the flash manual and some stuff online.

Then I just started taking pics.

Trying different setting for both the cam and the flash. Different angles and areas.

Over the last year, Ive taken thousands of pics and deleated most of them till I found what give me the most realistic color of what I see buy eye.

Different angles may take different settings. Its all a trial and error thing.

When I am working on a case it only takes seconds to snap a pic, even while I am in the middle of a build up.

I started photo documenting all large or intresting cases. Some come out nice just as many crap.

The biggest challange is not taking the pics but organizing them into files then saving them on to disks.

Also the macro lens shows every little pimple and will really improve your work in short order. If you can make your work look clean and nice under the mag of the cam, imagine how it will look by eye.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_012.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_130.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_012.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_130.jpg
 
C

charles007

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LOVE THAT HALO ON THE MOLAR.
 
desertfox384

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Pretty porcelain - What is it? I used to use Heraceram which looked very similar to this.
 
stumpf

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Ivoclar E.max! Congratulations to the works. One of my new customer asked me about. Ivoclar E.max Press Ceramic works.I told him that zirconia is better,but he insisted on his opinion.I started the read infos about E.max system,and two days ago i pressed my first crown with a help of the local IVOCLAR dealer.:) Now i agree with the Doctor, for the veeners and cosmetics crowns it's better choice.

I have to learn a lot of things from experience.

First of all, i have a Touch and Press 2 furnice,and it's difficult to
calculate the pressing parameters.If somebody who has a some furnice and press Ivoclar E.max., it would be very helpful,because in the first pressing(100g muffle - 3 copings)we over pressed the muffle very much,then we pressed a 200g muffle with 3 full anatomicaly crowns and it was ok.

Then about making full anatomicaly crowns.I thinking about it is possible making a crown with this method:

1. scanning the model with my 3 Shape Scanner.
2. design a full anatomicaly crown with Dental Designer.
3. milling the cown from PMMA.
4. the Doctor Try-in the PMMA crown.
5. invest the PMMA crown,burning out,and press
6. paint and glaze the crown

What do you think?
 
Last edited:
sixonice

sixonice

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stumpf, your idea would work very well I believe. I have a good friend of mine scanning and designing all his full contour e.max restorations with the 3Shape scanner and software, then he sends that scan over to his DP Projet 3000 Products | Projet™ DP 3000 and "prints" them in wax - rapid prototyping style - then sprues, burns out and presses them. He loves that set-up and when things get really busy and crazy it helps him stay caught up.
 
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thewhitelab

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Hi Stumpf, I purchased the 3 shape scanner 3 months ago with this technique in mind, however in reality the time it takes to scan and design the full contour crown, i can actually wax one in a similar amount! Could be a nice idea using the PMMA as a try in for select cases possibly full/half arches?, but how many doctors would numb up a patient to try a single posterior crown in?
 
Edy

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Patient is very attractive young woman. She presented like this.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg

These are 3/4 crowns and Venners.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B_1.jpg

Mounted up and waxed full contour

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B2.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B3.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B4.jpg

Make a matrix of the wax and press fit and cut back for layering.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t1.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t2.jpg

Stain, build contour and glaze and a must, seat on the solid model.

To do over again I would change the height of contours. I missed them and it is over glazed I think a matte glaze looks much more natural. Also I am not 100% satisfied with the incisal edges.

This is a bleach shade, BL3.
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t6.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t12.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t16.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t17.jpg


This is a bleach shade. A BL3.

Here is the money shot and all that counts.

Before

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg

After

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t23.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t24.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t25.jpg

Here is another case.

BL2 shade.

The key to bleach shades is to be sure and build in trans. and put a small bit of yellow at the cervical. Break up your incisal with different translucencies to it dosent look grey.
Pay attention to your contours and facial anatomy to reflect the light properly and I gave a bit of a matte finish on this case.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t26.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t27.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t28.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t29.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t30.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t31.jpg

What special about bleach shades in inline ? more white then A1 ? bleach shade is only for luminate ? or u can use it over metal crowns too ?
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t22.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B2.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B3.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_B4.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t2.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t6.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t12.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t16.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t17.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t23.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t24.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t25.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t26.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t27.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t28.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t29.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t30.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_t31.jpg
 
Affinity

Affinity

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love the way you break up the interproximals on the laterals, one open one closed.. very natural. I struggle with this sometimes, restrained symmetry...
nice work! thanks
 
Gru

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Ivoclar E.max! Congratulations to the works. One of my new customer asked me about. Ivoclar E.max Press Ceramic works.I told him that zirconia is better,but he insisted on his opinion.I started the read infos about E.max system,and two days ago i pressed my first crown with a help of the local IVOCLAR dealer.:) Now i agree with the Doctor, for the veeners and cosmetics crowns it's better choice.

I have to learn a lot of things from experience.

First of all, i have a Touch and Press 2 furnice,and it's difficult to
calculate the pressing parameters.If somebody who has a some furnice and press Ivoclar E.max., it would be very helpful,because in the first pressing(100g muffle - 3 copings)we over pressed the muffle very much,then we pressed a 200g muffle with 3 full anatomicaly crowns and it was ok.

Then about making full anatomicaly crowns.I thinking about it is possible making a crown with this method:

1. scanning the model with my 3 Shape Scanner.
2. design a full anatomicaly crown with Dental Designer.
3. milling the cown from PMMA.
4. the Doctor Try-in the PMMA crown.
5. invest the PMMA crown,burning out,and press
6. paint and glaze the crown

What do you think?
Stumpf, your list is very practical, but not using your T&P IMHO. I have one too, and had only an old EP500. I still use the EP500 for pressing, but the T&P is not only hard to get right, it's not very reliable as a press- every T&P I have experience with (7 to date) has pressing unreliability. Get a EP3000 or EP5000 (or maybe Zubler- haven't used it) if you're going to press a lot. It's eventually worth the money. If you must, my current parameters for T&P: Start:700C,Rate70C,Vac on, Presstemp 925C, Hold15min,Press 12min for 100g; for 200g add 5min to hold time, 3 min to press time. Good luck.
 
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