an issue with the sintering furnace

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Mohammad Khair

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If you have something like this http://www.mihm-vogt.de/vhtml_en/high-temperature-furnaces/02_HT-S_speed.php
ill think its your line you can switch to 4000 watt at what is the control panel now

i think its more than power consumption issue, i think the tech behind heating of this furnaces is the problem,
what i think of is the fast change in power consumption second by second is too big and the switch is sensitive to such a fast change, even though it can withstand higher power consumption its still cannot swallow that fast change.
the electrician here have no idea of what can solve this.
me too, it is just a guess, i need someone who face the same problem to know how could he solve it.
so now i have mainly to options to bring a regulator to regulate the fast change of power consumption or to change my control panel to less sensitive one.
:confused::confused::confused:
 
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i am still afraid to be an issue inside my furnace as nobody here is facing the same problem,
and now all the solutions have a potential loose.
the maintenance is far away and i cannot stop using my only furnace.
and still afraid if i bring a regulator or change my control panel will not solve the problem or even may worsening the situation.ArghBanghead
 
NicelyMKV

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If you've been stressing the breaker for awhile it will eventually trip easier and easier. It may be at that point of needing to be replaced due to the larger load it was dealing with prior to disconnecting the water heater?
 
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If you've been stressing the breaker for awhile it will eventually trip easier and easier. It may be at that point of needing to be replaced due to the larger load it was dealing with prior to disconnecting the water heater?

thank you, i will take my chances and change it as u said.
i will let you guys know about it
 
Tayebdental

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Why did you discontinue the grounding. I think the plug in UAE looks like this, image.jpg
 
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If you have Yudian PID controller on furnace, then do the following to reduce power consumption.

Hold Upper Left button for 2-3 seconds.....

Weird characters will appear. (Klingon?)

Press upper Left button 3 or 4 times to see "Loc 0" parameter.

Then, press bottom right button to raise 0 to 808

This unlock the hidden parameters.

Then, press upper left button 14 or more times until you see OPh and some number on bottom (Output High)
This is the parameter right after OPL (Output Low which is used when chamber-temp is under 300C usually)

Lower this value by 5.....This is a scale of 1-100 or sometimes 1-110

We do this for the furnaces we sell.

This reduces Max. power consumption at full-blast.

Depends on transformer in the furnace, and the resistance of the elements, and input Voltage.

Many elements are hand made and have a range of electrical resistance. The length and diameter have large influence on behavior. No Two furnace are exact same in my experience having owned over 50 furnaces for sintering of many many sizes.

For our small furnace that we sell, we have close to Max. (95-110)

For our Largest furnace, we reduce OPh to around 55.

The info on back of furnace is just a close guess. Not correct for many instances.

Again, it depends on input Voltage, Element's electrical resistance, transformer type and wiring, etc....



Scotty


***,
I have the Glidewell blue sintering oven and i keep having problems with the elements breaking and crumbling into pieces at the connector about every three months or so. It seems at the very beginning when I start a cycle that the amps spike like crazy and that's when it sparks and ruins the element. Is there a way in the settings to reduce the initial amp shock at the beginning of the cycle?
 
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I dont own a sintering oven, so feel free to disregard what I say...but a new breaker would be money well spent. Also...listen to Scott (***). He knows. I hope he will explain the molybdenum/oxygen stuff causing the silica to flake off the elements. If you get to visit with him, make sure you hear about the cobalt/radiator fluid stain he made.

Scott knows.
 
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I dont own a sintering oven, so feel free to disregard what I say...but a new breaker would be money well spent. Also...listen to Scott (***). He knows. I hope he will explain the molybdenum/oxygen stuff causing the silica to flake off the elements. If you get to visit with him, make sure you hear about the cobalt/radiator fluid stain he made.

Scott knows.

thank you for the advice. that is mostly my opinion too, but after i connect it the furnace to the heater breaker, and still have the same problem i then think twice and hesitated, however, i`ll go to some big electrical part seller and take a new one and give it another try.

we all have some knowledge and its great to share it, but i always believe that love and respect is mutually traded behavior, you cannot get others respect unless you respect them.
a man cannot step on every foot of the people around him just because he think he knows everything.
knowledge at its best not an excuse to insult people, and there is always another opinion to respect.

i have nothing personal with anyone here, i really enjoy it to share knowledge and experience and to have fun too, however i like to do it with self respect.

best wishes
 
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we will use to each other don`t worry, :cool:
i never had a hard feelings because such a things.
and always expect people to do the same with me.
 
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***,
I have the Glidewell blue sintering oven and i keep having problems with the elements breaking and crumbling into pieces at the connector about every three months or so. It seems at the very beginning when I start a cycle that the amps spike like crazy and that's when it sparks and ruins the element. Is there a way in the settings to reduce the initial amp shock at the beginning of the cycle?


You need to make double sure the elements are held in steel bracket properly.
If One end becomes loose.....they will break under force of gravity and heat cycles.
You may think you have it assembled correct and tight, but after a few heat cycles it may change and settle down, opening up One end on the clamp.

After a few cycles, check your screws/nuts.

Lower your OPL value some to prevent the spike please.

Same process as I described.....Go down in increments of 5.

When elements are cold, they have much different electrical resistance!

It is important to limit the current in the beginning! Slow to 300C, then you can go full-blast.
 
CoolHandLuke

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i wonder if this furnace is new or old

if it is an old furnace then the system might be trying to bring more current into the system than it can withstand. old electronics do this but to a certain point these just appear as system faults. this, by contrast, seems to be overloading the whole breaker, and not blowing the internal fuse.

a very interesting problem - perhaps checking the fuse within the unit itself to see if it has been bypassed or altered, would be a good measure.
 
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i wonder if this furnace is new or old

if it is an old furnace then the system might be trying to bring more current into the system than it can withstand. old electronics do this but to a certain point these just appear as system faults. this, by contrast, seems to be overloading the whole breaker, and not blowing the internal fuse.

a very interesting problem - perhaps checking the fuse within the unit itself to see if it has been bypassed or altered, would be a good measure.

no its brand new,, actually i am still preparing to open, within few days hopefully.
 

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